Maria & Michael's

No Maria, no Michael, but the food is as good as ever

by Margaret LeRoux

Maria & Michael's Ristorante 395 Grafton Street Worcester 752-6660 Hours Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. 1-9 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

We'd all eaten way too much turkey. So the antidote, proposed by our out-of-town-guests, was Italian food -- lots of it. Since we'd done Shrewsbury Street the day before Thanksgiving, I suggested we check out Maria & Michael's Ristorante on Grafton Street. I'd been meaning to visit, since neither Maria nor Michael preside in the kitchen anymore. New owners Debbie and Steven (formerly of Monty's Garden) Caligaria have added their own touches to this cozy basement cafe.

Seems like a lot of others had the same idea; though we arrived before six, the place was almost full. The staff was hopping, but it all felt cheerful and festive, not rushed. We enjoyed Vichon chardonnay ($4.25), San Nicola merlot ($4.25), and a house Chianti ($3), along with a draft Sam Adams ($3), while devouring a basket of Italian bread and enjoying the holiday music that played in the background.

Appetizers feature a few unexpected items: scallops in bacon ($4.95), fried ravioli ($4.95), and tripe ($3.95 for small; $6.95 for large). We opted for bruschetta ($4.95), a tasty serving of six large pieces of garlic bread topped with chopped, fresh tomatoes and onions, and antipasto ($4.95 for a small; $7.95 for large). We were glad we ordered the small -- it was more than we could finish. The platter, heaped with salad greens, olives, peppers, and tomatoes was topped by a bouquet of pink flowers. No, it was just my over-active imagination, though the rolls of ham, salami, prosciutto, and provolone cheese were very pretty.

We also sampled the soups of the night: Manhattan clam chowder and butternut bisque ($2.25 a cup; $3.25 a bowl). They were worth a return visit. The chowder featured chopped tomatoes rather than tomato sauce, which allowed the fresh clams to dominate. It was a big hit with our group as was the bisque. In fact, it was superb, with a slight hint of nutmeg; I'd say one of the best versions of this soup I've eaten.

On to the main courses, with so many to choose from. Pasta selections range from a choice of cavatelli, fettucini, linguine, ziti, or angel hair served in a tomato sauce ($4.95) to vegetable primavera ($8.95). Chicken variations include parmesan, piccata, marsala, cacciatore, scampi, cordon bleu, and stir fry (all $8.95). Haddock and scallops are offered baked and fried ($8.95) with fish and chips at $6.95. Slightly more expensive are shrimp scampi ($9.95), fried seafood trio ($10.95), and seafood Alfredo with broccoli on pasta ($11.95).

Meat choices include veal parmesan, piccata, and marsala ($9.95); a 14 ounce New York sirloin is $11.95.

There are also nightly specials and two of us zeroed in on those. I wavered between veal Milano, described as pan-fried veal with onions, peppers, and prosciutto in mushroom gravy with sherry and melted mozzarella over pasta ($11.95), and veal and lobster, which is pan-fried veal with sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and chunks of lobster claw meat in a rich sauce over angel hair pasta ($13.95). I'll admit the prospect of lobster without having to crack it open won me over.

One of my companions chose the seafood fra diavalo: fresh scallops, mussels, calamari, and shrimp in a spicy marinara sauce over linguine ($13.95). The other two in our group selected manicotti ($7.95) and fettuccine la rose ($7.95).

The hit of the evening was the seafood fra diavalo, an enormous portion of fresh seafood. We all kept sneaking tastes; the scallops were among the most tasty I've had in a long time. The calamari had a nice bite to it, but not at all rubbery.

My choice was popular too. Here, the veal was the star, very fresh and fork tender. The lobster, while perfectly okay, didn't add much to the meal.

Fettuccine la rose was a rich, vegetarian choice, a tomato cream sauce thick with peppers and onions. It was delicious and more than enough to take home for another meal.

The only disappointment was the manicotti. Though the pasta and filling were fresh and tasty, the sauce unfortunately had been burned, and as any cook knows, once tomato sauce burns, you may as well toss it; you can't get rid of that acrid flavor.

On the whole, though, we were more than pleased by our meals. In fact, we never even considered dessert. Maybe on a return visit, if I stick to butternut bisque . . .

Our bill came to $88, before tip.