Wildwood Steak House

A classic 1960s-era steakhouse in Marlborough

by Margaret LeRoux

Wildwood Steak House 189 Boston Post Road Marlborough 481-2021 Hours Fri.-Sat. 4:30-11 p.m. Sun.-Thurs. 4:30-10 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

When a guy spends most of a beautiful Saturday afternoon under the kitchen sink fixing the plumbing, doesn't he deserve a steak dinner as a reward? Once the pipes were working again, my favorite dining companion and I drove to Marlborough where the Wildwood Steak House is as close to a 1960s-era restaurant as you're likely to find around here. It's got that low-slung, cement-and-glass-block facade so popular back then. As we crossed the huge parking lot delicious smoke from the wood-fire grill cranked up our appetites, and visions of juicy meat filled our heads.

Inside the spacious waiting area (by the time we left, two hours later, it was crammed with hungry-looking people; Wildwood doesn't take reservations), we gave our names and headed for the bar. What a beauty: imposing dark wood with mirrors and hefty stools. At the far end of the room, a crazy mural of underwater creatures milling about with drinks in their flippers and fins covers the walls. "That's the sand bar," the bartender told us.

We waited less than a half-hour before the maitre d' led us through a sprawling series of dining areas (there are more tables and a function room up a flight of stairs) down a couple of steps to a high-sided wood booth. The room's dark green walls are lightened with whimsical prints and a large neon sculpture of a flamingo and palm trees.

The only criticism we had of the atmosphere was blaring contemporary-rock music that competed with the restaurant's noise.

A waitress quickly appeared with a hot loaf of bread, which we demolished while studying the menu. All those sea critters we saw in the bar made us lean toward seafood as an appetizer. Then we noticed more than half the appetizers were shellfish. And there's a raw bar with blue point oysters on the half-shell ($5.95/half dozen; $10.95/dozen) and Wellfleet clams ($7.45/half dozen; $13.95/dozen). For us, it was a toss-up between pan-fried crab cakes ($7.45) and clams casino ($7.45). I must confess, we chose the clams because we got six of them. They were salty with bacon and Parmesan cheese, crunchy with peppers and onions, but my companion's Anchor Steam beer ($3.50) quenched his thirst. I drank a glass of Silverado Sauvignon Blanc ($6), one of several good choices available by the glass.

Steak reigns at the Wildwood, though it's supported by seafood and a few chicken and pork dishes. There's even pasta primavera ($7.95) for vegetarians. At the top of the line is a 20 oz. Kansas City sirloin ($18.95); a smaller appetite might well be served by grilled sliced sirloin with portobello mushrooms, onions, and peppers ($11.95).

The plumber chose the black Angus ($16.95), a 12 oz. center cut of sirloin. It came with a choice of potatoes, his was French fries, He also requested a Caesar salad ($3.95) with the optional anchovies.

My steak craving was satisfied by a yellow fin tuna steak ($13.95), though there were several other appealing choices: mako shark ($9.45) and marlin ($9.95) and an incorrectly named broiled seafood platter, which includes baked-stuffed shrimp, clams casino, lobster claw, fish fillet, and broiled scallops ($13.95). My salad choice was Sonoma ($3.95), a huge bowl of mixed greens doused in balsamic dressing. There were two unwieldy chunks of unpeeled cucumber, a slice of grilled portobello mushroom, and a scattering of feta cheese.

My companion's steak was cooked to order, medium rare. But despite the menu's claim of mesquite-wood grilled, it was oddly bland. A healthy application of sea salt and cracked pepper improved the taste. The French fries were frozen and forgettable.

My tuna was likewise medium rare but much more tasty; and the baked potato was fresh with crisp skin.

The dessert selection include mile-high chocolate cake ($4.50), which -- for those who appreciate very sweet, bakery style -- is the best bargain on the menu. The serving was enormous. Our bill for an entertaining evening was $63.32 before tip.

LOOKING FOR A NIGHT on the town that will also benefit a deserving cause? The Star Chefs of Worcester offers a chance to enjoy some exceptional food and to meet the chefs from the Beachwood, Sonoma, Nantucket Seafood, Tiano's, Shorah's, the Publick House, and Maxwell Silverman's Tool House. It's at Mechanics Hall at 6 p.m. on November 8. Proceeds benefit the March of Dimes. Tickets are $75. To reserve, phone (781) 762-4747.