Summer feast

17 Summer Restaurant is for the sophisticated, down-home eater

by Margaret LeRoux

17 Summer Restaurant 17 Summer Street (Route 62) Maynard (978) 897-2300 Sun.-Thu. 5-9pm Fri.-Sat. 5-10pm Major credit cards Wine and Beer Handicap accessible

I'm always asking friends for restaurant tips, so when a thoughtful reader sent us a note describing a wonderful dinner at 17 Summer Restaurant in Maynard, I was eager to give it a try. 17 Summer is the latest in a series of restaurants to occupy the charming little building next to Maynard's Fine Arts Cinema. Two friends and I made the trip -- little more than a half-hour from Worcester -- on a recent Friday night

After one of the more pleasant meals I've experienced in a long time, I found myself wishing I lived within walking distance; the restaurant would be a nice destination for a stroll. It's a neighborhood bistro sort of place where I'd love to be a regular. Then the pair of motherly waitresses would check on my preferences for white or dark meat if I ordered the special roasted half-chicken, or save me the last of the delicious homemade bread, as we observed them doing for a table of diners (clearly regulars) next to ours.

Throughout our dinner, we were treated warmly, even given a little tour of the second dining room as we left. Part of the restaurant was a stable about a hundred years ago; now it's a rustic room, decorated in warm, beige tones.

Besides the atmosphere, we were impressed with the quality of the chef's ingredients: sweet sea scallops, tender veal, lamb, even the salad greens had a home-grown taste. Chef/owner Michael Shammas obviously has high standards.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. We began our little feast with an order of Prince Edward Island mussels ($6.50), steamed with wine and garlic, and a roasted portobello mushroom stuffed with tangy goat cheese served atop a bed of wilted greens ($5). The contrast in taste between the smoky mushroom and the briny mussels was irresistible. Needless to say, both plates were empty when our waitress returned.

Next up were the house salads, a simple mixture of greens and tomatoes (which were just-picked-from-the-garden ripe) tossed with a light vinaigrette. The homemade bread, which is served warm, was so good we had to restrain from filling up on it before our dinners arrived.

The menu at 17 Summer Restaurant offers a range that appeals to both the sophisticated diner and those who prefer down-home cooking. Appetizers, for example, include both a sweet-corn chowder ($2.50/cup, $3.75 bowl) and a scallion, roast-tomato and Parmesan cheese tart ($4.50). There are a selection of thin-crust pizzas and several pastas. I intend to try smoked salmon Alfredo with peppers and fresh sage ($10) on another visit.

Meat selections include blackened sirloin ($14) and meatloaf with barbecue sauce ($8). There are shrimp scampi ($13) and plank broiled salmon ($12) and chicken parmigiana ($10) as well as chicken gorgonzola ($10.50), which includes spinach, onion, and tomato cream.

I chose one of the night's specials, roast rack of lamb with rosemary and roasted garlic ($16), while my companions ordered regular-menu items: the veal version of the chicken gorgonzola ($10.50) served over linguine, and sautéed scallops, bacon, tomato, and basil cream sauce on fettuccine ($12.50). We sampled Alagash Belgian white ale ($3.50), Tremont summer ale ($3.25), and a Forestville Merlot ($4).

Usually when the three of us dine, there is a favorite among our selections, and two of us end up trying to sneak more than our share of tastes. Or we discuss what could have been improved in the dishes that weren't the best. This time, we were all delighted with our choices; there wasn't a single ingredient that was out of place.

My lamb -- seven generous and fork-tender chops -- was perfectly grilled to what I requested. But the accompanying light and creamy polenta with fresh sage really bowled me over. I'd happily eat a plate of this anytime.

Medallions of veal could easily be overwhelmed by the rich combination of caramelized onions and gorgonzola cheese, but here they weren't. This was another outstanding dish.

I can't remember when I've tasted such fresh scallops; even when bathed with tomatoes and bacon in a basil cream sauce, their flavor really came through.

Desserts, too, were noteworthy. The fresh peach-blueberry crisp ($4) was served piping hot with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream; two crisp mini cannoli ($3) were plump with an almond-ricotta filling. We sighed with satisfaction as we totaled our bill, $82.37, before tip.