Escargot

New owners serve up the same quality of Thai and French classics that gave this restaurant its excellent reputation

by Margaret LeRoux

Escargot 231 Main Street, Marlborough 481-9509 Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sun. 5-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

I was meeting an old friend for dinner, so I searched through my list of "must trys." It was too hot to eat outdoors; Italian seemed too heavy, so did steak. But we're both good eaters and wanted something more substantial than salad. I found a note that read: "Check out Escargot . . . new owners . . . is menu the same?"

My friend was a fan of Escargot, a storefront restaurant in downtown Marlborough that features both Thai and French cuisine. Escargot's original owners sold it earlier this year; we wondered whether the new management remained true to the original concept.

After a pleasant and leisurely meal, we were reassured. Under the new owners, chef Phuwanart Meecham and Uthai Jamcri, Escargot has more of a Thai influence than before, but many items still can be found on the new, slightly pricier menu.

We liked the Thai influence on the French entrée we shared, and noticed it throughout the menu. One of the French appetizers, for example, open ravioli of crab ($7.95), features two Thai herbs, lemon grass and kaffir leaf in the bouillon in which it's served. Basil, too, moves easily between the two cuisines. Paired with mint and chilis, it heats up a Thai seafood dish; with garlic, lemon, and white wine, it gives veal a stronger flavor.

Escargot's wine list, though small, has some interesting offerings, including a Pascal Jolivet sancerre ($26) from France's Loire Valley. Sancerre hasn't yet found a niche in restaurants in Central Massachusetts, but it's developed quite a following among those who frequent Boston's trendy nightspots. White sancerre is made from sauvignon grapes -- though it's lighter than many chardonnays -- and we found it delightful to sip throughout the evening.

We passed on Escargot rolls ($5), the restaurant's version of crispy spring rolls (there is a soft version with chicken and another with vegetables both at $4.50). There are fewer French appetizer offered. Escargot is served in red wine sauce ($7.95). The coquille St. Jacques features the addition of shrimp to this classic scallop dish ($7.95). There are also salads and a selection of soup, which we didn't even consider because of the hot, humid weather. Instead, we shared an order of tod mun, four fried patties of minced shrimp and Thai spices served with a peanut and cucumber sauce.

Escargot is a pretty little restaurant. Pale green walls with landscape prints and, in a nod to its Thai heritage, a pair of Buddha statues. A wait staff of three is attentive but discreet. Wine and water glasses were filled before we even thought to ask. The two of us chatted until closing time, but were never made to feel rushed.

For our main courses, we split between the two cuisines, though with so many Thai offerings, it was hard to choose. Three curries (red, green, yellow) are offered with your choice of chicken, shrimp, beef, squid, pork, scallops, vegetables, and fish; and a whole section of do-it-yourself combinations like cashew nut ($9.95) with onions, carrots, snow peas was quite tempting.

My selection was one of the chef's choices: seafood delight ($14.95), a combination of shrimp, scallops, squid, and haddock with an assortment of vegetables. It was here that I found the answer to my long-standing complaint about zucchini. Too often it's bland. At Escargot, the chef uses small zucchini and runs the tines of a fork along the skin, which creates a pretty pattern when cut thickly and keeps the slices crunchy after they're sautéed. At last, zucchini as a worthy accompaniment.

My friend chose l'escalope de veau piccata ($17.95) and was intrigued by the sauce. It had more depth than the usual lemon, capers, and white wine flavor -- and we found out why, the chef adds a hint of tomato paste and chicken broth. The veal slices -- three large, tender medallions -- were served over an assortment of vegetables and mashed potatoes, which is fine as long as you don't mind the sauce covering everything on the plate.

We both love pad Thai, and Escargot's combination of shrimp and chicken ($7.95) met our expectations.

As the perfect ending to the evening, we treated ourselves to Escargot's signature dessert, chocolate soufflé. It's an adorable little ring that looks like a miniature bundt cake until you cut through the crisp exterior to the soft, runny chocolate inside. Two tiny scoops of homemade chocolate ice cream -- rich as gelato -- and two rosettes of whipped cream adorned the plate. We were in dessert heaven. Our bill came to $83.80, not including tip.