Wine and dine

J's serves a plate of perfection

by Margaret LeRoux

J's 100 Wattaquadoc Hill Road, Bolton (978) 779-9816 Lunch Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner Wed.-Sat. 6-9 p.m. MC, Visa Nashoba wines only Handicap accessible

Few things create more of a crisis for a restaurant than the departure of its chef. When a chef has been instrumental in the opening of a restaurant -- thus creating and executing the menu -- it's an added challenge for the next chef to overcome.

Such was the case late last fall when Jerome's, the new restaurant at Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton, lost not only its chef, but also its namesake. Jerome Picca, the talented young chef who had such an influence on the new restaurant that it was named for him, left for the World Trade Center in Boston, where he now oversees catering. Picca's classical training and skillful use of the winery's fresh produce, herbs, and edible flowers set a standard for dining in the area. Though it was a bit daunting for sous chef Jason Kennedy -- Picca's successor -- to maintain the new restaurant's reputation, he succeeded admirably.

In fact, after a recent meal at J's, the re-named restaurant at Nashoba Winery, I'd say Kennedy has raised the culinary bar a notch. Every course, from the complementary bouche amusé -- marinated mushroom caps, sun dried tomatoes, and kalamata olives served on a bed of greens drizzled with vinaigrette -- to a dessert parfait of fresh fruit and raspberry crème fraîche, was flawless.

"Wow," I said after the tasting the pretty little gift from the chef sent to appease us while a large party in the adjoining dining room was served. "Wow," I repeated at the first bite of my appetizer, scallops seared and blackened, ever so lightly, and served with a salad of match-stick-size slices of jicama seasoned with apple-wine vinegar and spices, and accented by a bright orange mango purée ($8.50). And that's before I sampled my companion's salad of baby spinach leaves, raddicchio, and fresh goat cheese (from Windy Hamlet Farms in Sterling) dressed in a not-at-all-too-sweet peach vinaigrette. He selected the three-course, prix fixe menu, available on Wednesday and Thursday nights. At $30 ($10 extra for wine pre-selected for each course) it includes a choice from two appetizers, main courses, and a dessert.

We were both impressed with the food and presentation at J's, and we were relieved to see that the restaurant has retained its welcoming atmosphere. The pleasantly renovated antique farmhouse is decorated with arrangements of dried flowers and herbs. The lighting is golden and subdued; service is friendly and professional.

Since owners Rich and Cindy Pelletier took over almost four years ago, they and winemaker Larry Ames have boosted the winery's reputation with award-winning, upscale, dry wines. With our first courses, my companion and I sipped glasses of Vidal Blanc and Dry Pear; either could hold its own with any chardonnay we've enjoyed.

Main courses on the prix fixe menu were bouillabaisse or cumin-crusted pork tenderloin with black-bean salad; my companion chose bouillabaisse. He was served a large bowl of the fish stew, which included mussels, shrimp, scallops, and salmon perfectly cooked in a savory broth. We soaked up every bit of the broth with garlic-infused slices of toasted French bread that floated on top.

The regular dinner menu has so many enticing choices, I had a hard time deciding. New England lobster cakes ($32.50) beckoned, so did mixed grill of wild game ($30) and vegetarian London broil ($17.50), which was grilled portobello mushrooms, sweet potato, and red onion finished with a vegetable bordelaise. I finally settled on pan-seared duck breast with tangerine-cumin jus ($24) accompanied by a glass of Nashoba's dry apple-elderberry wine, Chrysleton.

The plate, strewn with a confetti of chopped herbs, held a ring of tender breast slices on a bed of root-vegetable hash, a delicious mixture of sweet potato, carrot, onion and celery seasoned with curry. What put the course over the top was a blue-cheese-filled baked apple, a tart and tangy combination that offset the duck beautifully.

I couldn't manage dessert, though triple chocolate truffle and lemon mousse tart (both $6.50) were tempting. Instead, I helped my companion finish the raspberry crème fraîche parfait. The bill for this outstanding meal didn't even break three figures; at $88.72, it was a good value.

While sipping coffee we overheard our waitress tell nearby diners that chef Kennedy will soon depart J's. Later, in a phone interview, Kennedy confirmed. He's signed on for a winter of sailing in the Caribbean as chef for a luxury schooner. J's new chef is Steven Sprague, a graduate of the Florida Culinary Academy. His new menu will showcase seafood with Caribbean touches. We wish Kennedy bon voyage; to Sprague, bien venue, with the hope he continues the tradition of excellence.