Pickity Place

Ladies lunch at grandmother's cottage

by Margaret LeRoux

Pickity Place Nutting Hill Road Mason, New Hampshire (603) 8878-1151 Seven days: seatings at 11:30 a.m., 12:45 p.m., and 2 p.m. Closed on major holidays Major credit cards No alcohol Not Handicap accessible

My great aunt Margaret was a believer in the restorative power of a scenic drive, preferably one that included a good restaurant. I spent many a childhood summer afternoon as her companion and navigator as we motored up the north shore of Lake Superior, stopping to revive our spirits at one of numerous tea rooms along the road.

Aunt Margaret would have loved Pickity Place, in Mason, New Hampshire, where a friend and I recently spent a leisurely afternoon. At this time of year, the scenery on the way to Pickity Place is all lush green trees and hillsides; I'm already planning a return trip in the fall when the leaves turn.

Pickity Place is an ideal spot to take your great aunt, or mother, or out-of-town visitors. The 213-year-old farmhouse, which posed for the illustrations of grandmother's house for a 1948 edition of Little Red Riding Hood, sits at the end of a winding, forested, driveway and offers a glimpse into rural New England history.

The cottage has been restored, and a restaurant kitchen, gift shops, and a greenhouse have been added. The grounds showcase beautifully tended herb and flower gardens; you can wait for your table on lawn chairs in the shade.

Pickity Place serves only lunch, at three seatings -- 11:30 a.m. and 12:45 and 2 p.m. The tiny dining room and adjoining sun-room seat only 56, so reservations are recommended.

Once seated, you're presented with the menu of the month, a five-course meal using produce, herbs, and floral garnishes from the on-site gardens. There's a choice between vegetarian and meat, chicken, or fish entrées, and the set price is $13.95 plus tax. In June, the options were chicken crepes with orange-scented tomato relish, or marinated, sautéed vegetables over a portabello mushroom. For July, the choices are turkey-stuffed roasted sweet peppers with mango salsa, and vegetable strudel with cilantro sauce. You can preview Pickity Place menus on the Web at:

http://www.visit-newhampshire.com/

pickityplace.

We were served by an enthusiastic and friendly waitress named Barbara, who reminded me of the motherly types who waited on my great aunt and me many years ago -- the kind of waitresses who know their menus inside and out. Barbara certainly did. She answered all our "What's that herb or flower?" queries on the spot, and checked with the chef when I asked for the ingredients of the delicious tomato relish.

"Just chopped tomatoes, onions, parsley, and orange peel," she informed us. It's surprising how the simple addition of orange peel gave such depth to the tomato mixture.

From our vantage point in the sun-room, we surveyed the adjacent dining room full of females of all ages -- from grandmothers to an adorable toddler. It's not a place where macho guys would feel comfortable.

First course was a yogurt-based dip with chopped vegetables and ranch flavored dressing served with a basket of Pepperidge Farm crackers. This was followed by smoky bean soup, which tasted very much like vegetarian chili. The day we dined was hot and humid; I'd have preferred a chilled soup, but noticed that everyone else in the dining room ate the hot soup without complaint.

Next, we were served a slice of chive bread, still warm from the oven, with sweet butter seasoned with honey and chopped chives. Both the vegetable dip and chive bread are available for sale in the gift shop.

Small salads dressed with a sweetened lemon vinaigrette and garnished with edible flowers, arrived next. I'd never eaten a lavender blossom before; the taste is very much like the scent. Like biting into potpourri, it was rather jarring. My own floral preference would have been the peppery taste of nasturtiums.

Nasturtiums made an appearance as a garnish for the vegetarian entrée, flavorful layers of thin-sliced zucchini, mushrooms, carrots, and peppers over a large, portabello mushroom, topped with melted cheese. Two asparagus spears flecked with chopped tarragon accompanied the vegetables. My companion chose chicken crepes, very delicate pancakes stuffed with poached chicken breast, fresh herbs, and topped by that tasty tomato relish. The beverages offered were iced or hot raspberry tea and café mocha served iced with a cinnamon stick for a stirrer.

The happy ending to our meal was a fruit pizza with a shortbread crust, and cream-cheese topping decorated with whole blueberries and strawberries and an apricot glaze. The bill for two not including tip was $30.13.