Mac's Diner

Remembering one of the first -- and one of the best -- reasons why Shrewsbury Street is Worcester's Little Italy

by Margaret LeRoux

Mac's Diner 185 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester No phone Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner Wed.-Sat. 5-9 p.m. Cash only BYOB Handicap accessible

Before there was Anthony's, Kettles, or Primo's -- even before the revival Shrewsbury Street restaurants -- there was Mac's. The little diner, second-oldest family-owned restaurant in the city (after the Wonder Bar, another Shrewsbury Street institution), has nourished generations of city folk. It was a popular truck stop after it opened in 1931; but by the late 1980s, Mac's was the first on the street to offer out-of-the-ordinary food prepared in an open kitchen and in a flashy style. The fact that prices were low and portions enormous made it the place to be on any weekend night; and there was always a long line that snaked around the corner

Now that more Shrewsbury Street restaurants have adopted and adapted Mac's winning strategy, the crowds have moved on. When we visited on a recent Saturday night, the line was short. Inside, little has changed. Mac's is still a classic diner, with dark wood booths lining one wall and a counter with stools offering a front-row view of meal preparation. Behind the counter, chef/owner Paul McMahon presides, assisted by a staff of young women cooks and bakers who turn out first-rate meals and loaves of outstanding bread.

Mac's also has a patio (the only one on Shrewsbury Street) and was tempting on a warm summer night -- reason enough for me to make a return visit. My dining companion and I waited only a few moments before we were brought outside to a large round table, which could easily accommodate six. The patio also has several smaller tables, a booth, and another large table, all filled this evening. The decor is as funky as the diner itself, featuring a collection of musical instruments and plants. One stucco wall is adorned with pots of sweet peas and impatiens. McMahon, who stopped by to see if everyone was satisfied with his or her meal, told us the patio is still a work in progress. He plans to eventually add another wall with a window. For now, imagine you're in Greenwich Village; the sounds from the street, complete with the occasional police siren, give an authenticity to summer dining in the city.

The BYOB rule is still in effect at Mac's, and the staff is happy to oblige with corkscrew and glasses. We sipped a Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc as we looked over the menu, which lists many longtime favorites like Italian combo with sausage, meatball, and chicken served cacciatore style ($8) and veal parmigiana ($8.50). There are also chicken with pepperoni, tortellini, and mushrooms served in an oil-and-garlic sauce ($8) and a sirloin steak ($9).

But the specials are what make Mac's great. These change nightly -- when we dined, they included chicken maison ($8), a combination of breast meat with fresh tomatoes, broccoli, and gorgonzola cheese, and veal piccata ($8). My dining companion and I chose lamb florentine ($8.50) from the specials, and veal Frances ($8.50) from the regular menu.

The all-time favorite of Mac's fans, ciambutta ($10.50), retains a permanent spot on the specials list. This is a rich stew of shrimp, mussels, scallops, and fish.

"Ciambutta is indigenous to Shrewsbury Street," McMahon said. "It's a variation of the Italian zuppa di pesce, which every Italian city offers. This neighborhood has a lot of Italians from Bisceglie, and ciambutta is my spelling of what they call fish soup."

We shared a house salad ($1.75) and noted how this simple plate of mixed greens, tomato quarters, and cucumber slices dressed in oil and vinegar became extraordinary with the addition of grated gorgonzola cheese. It gave the salad a delicious bite; with a basket of Mac's homemade, crusty bread, we were a happy pair.

Our friendly waitress -- the staff has long been known for treating customers like family -- brought our main dishes in a timely fashion. At the first tantalizing whiff, I knew we'd be pleased. My lamb, cubes of tenderloin sautéed but still pink in the middle, came in a sauce of lemon, garlic, and Madeira. They surrounded a cake made of long-grain rice, chopped fresh spinach, and tiny bits of bacon that provided the perfect foil to the meat and sauce. I ate as much as I could but still had enough to make a tasty lunch the next day.

My companion's veal medallions were sliced thin and sautéed with garlic, olive oil, wine, artichoke hearts, and mushrooms; it was a subtle and satisfying dish. He chose to have it served over linguine; we also sopped up bits of our respective sauces with more of Mac's bread.

What a nice way to spend a summer evening and -- at less than $20, not including tip -- what a bargain!