Go postal

Post Office Pub delivers the best pub treats and surprisingly good meals

by Margaret LeRoux

Post Office Pub Route 140 & Ray Street, North Grafton 839-6106 Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 8:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun.8 a.m.-10 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

Not bad for pub food," my companion commented as he wiped the remains of barbecue sauce from his hands and face. This normally sensible eater had just polished off an enormous plate of barbecued ribs ($13.99), a special of the night at the Post Office Pub in Grafton. Meaty with a slightly sweet, smoky sauce, the ribs tasted so good that you were enticed to continue, bite after bite. I know I polished off my portion, which he had shared with me.

Such is the sly magic of this unassuming little restaurant. We were prepared to be underwhelmed; instead we found ourselves enjoying almost everything we ate.

The Post Office Pub feeds crowds of undemanding, volume eaters on a daily basis. I know one person who makes a special trip to Grafton on Fridays just to eat the pub's lobster bisque. On past visits, I've had to wait in a long line; this time we arrived early on a midweek night and shared the garden-room addition with just a few tables of families.

The post-office theme defines the decor as well as the names of many items on the menu. A lovely antique arrangement of brass letterboxes hangs on one wall in the garden room: a forest of plants, which fill the room, was so lush we checked to make sure they were real. A huge bar and adjoining room lined with booths is where the smokers hang out. It's also the room where you can select dessert from a revolving, three-tiered glass cabinet full of hefty slices of cake, pies with six inches or more of meringue, and multi-colored jello parfaits.

Three of us met for dinner and challenged each other to try one of the pub's many exotic drinks. Our favorite name: screaming chocolate Monkey, a mixture of vodka, dark creme de cacao, Hershey's syrup, bananas, and ice cream. The list of ingredients drove us to more sensible choices: Wachusett ale and Sam Adams draft beer (both $3.33) and a soft drink ($2.30).

The appetizers are what you'd expect in a pub, lots of fried things: mozzarella sticks ($5.49), onion rings (3.99), nachos ($5.49), and potato skins ($5.29). We chose red-hot chili poppers ($5.29): chili peppers stuffed with cream cheese, deep fried, and served with a sweet-sour jam for dipping. One of the soup specials, cream of vegetable, intrigued me, so I ordered a cup ($1.69). This delicious mixture of squash, broccoli, corn, and peppers was subtly seasoned and a real winner.

The multi-page menu runs the gamut from burgers to sandwiches. I liked the sound of the air mail special -- half-pound of hamburger, bacon, cheese, lettuce tomato ($5.79) -- and the postmaster's pick ($5.49), chicken with lemon pepper seasoning.

As I noted, my companions got into the pub-food spirit, ordering the ribs and one of the night's specials, a fried clam platter ($13.99). Both came with mounds of hot, crispy French fries. The clams were first rate: not too heavy on the batter, not too long in the fryer. They were crisp on the outside, but the meaty clam bellies on the inside were tender.

My choice, admittedly, was a reach for a pub dinner: crab-meat stuffed sole. ($8.99). While the fish itself was fresh, if a bit under-seasoned, the filling didn't have enough crab meat to sustain the bread crumbs and liquid used to mix it. Instead of light and fluffy, the texture was gummy. However, the baked potato served alongside was oven-fresh, and the salad was a crisp, cold mixture of greens with a not-too-tangy blue cheese dressing.

My disappointment in the main course was forgotten at dessert. As soon as I tasted the first forkful of German chocolate cake ($3.99), a huge piece of rich chocolate cake generously filled and frosted with caramel, coconut, and pecans, I was glad I didn't clean my dinner plate. I'd return for this dessert alone! A slice of key lime pie, our second choice, was too artificially green, and the chocolate cookie crust did not complement the citrus filling. Our bill was $65.45, not including tip.

Thyme for a change?

There will soon be a new name, new look, and a new menu at one of Worcester's most imaginative restaurants. Thyme's Square on Hudson will change to Killeen's of Thyme Square by early September with renovations inside. The bar will be moved back to provide more space at the entrance.

The new menu will feature "comfort foods, sandwiches, and lighter fare in addition to some old favorites which will remain as specials," says chef-owner Gary Killeen.

After seven years in business, Killeen says, it's been hard to stay on the cutting edge of food trends in Worcester, where the dining public seems to prefer familiarity.

Too bad, but we wish him luck.