Victorian House

A restaurant where nouveau Continental doesn't mean stodgy

by Margaret LeRoux

The Victorian House 16 Maple Avenue, Ashburnham (978) 827-5646 Wed-Sat. Open 5 p.m. Full bar MC, Visa Handicap accessible

Remember Upstairs, Downstairs, the PBS series famous for its portrayal of life in the waning days of Victorian England? If you want to experience an Upstairs dinner served by the cream of the Downstairs staff, journey north to Ashburnham, home of the lovely Victorian House restaurant. Inside, the glorious excesses of Victorian decor almost, but not quite overwhelm you. The banister to the upper dining room is draped with ribbons and lace; the fireplace mantle in one of the two dining rooms on the ground floor is festooned with more lace, ribbons, and pearls. A room divider is adorned with china objet d'art. At dinner the lights are dim; candles glow on each table, where a perfect rose blooms in a cloud of baby's breath.

The wait staff, dressed in Victorian maid's attire, is well trained -- our waitress faultlessly described eight dinner specials and several appetizers not on the menu, answering all our questions knowledgeably. My only criticism is that prices were not included. Which may have dissuaded us from an appetizer we chose, lobster martini ($16.95), but what a luxurious treat it was. The dish was presented as two large pieces of succulent tail meat splashed with vermouth and aquavit and curled in a martini glass with a few salad greens for color. Served alongside was a trio of sauces. We also enjoyed baked artichokes Victorian ($5.95), with brie cheese, garlic butter, and wine sauce.

The salad that came with the meal was an artful arrangement of mixed greens, thin slices of carrots cut in a crosshatch pattern, and tiny, sweet, tomatoes dressed with just the right amount of house vinaigrette. Our capable waitress also brought a napkin-lined basket of assorted rolls, little muffins, and two caramel pecan rolls. (I wish I'd taken them home for breakfast.)

The Victorian House wine list is interesting, with a good assortment of French and German wines; several of the better domestic wineries are well represented too. We chose a crisp, French white Bordeaux, Chateau Cruzeaur grand vin de graves '97 ($23). It was perfect with my seafood, and held its own admirably with my companion's grilled breast of duck.

The Victorian House menu can best be described as "nouveau Continental," with standards such as tournedos of beef ($18.95), and shellfish with cream sauce in phyllo dough ($19.50). "Continental" in some restaurants means stodgy dishes with heavy sauces -- veal Prince Orloff comes to mind -- we found quite the opposite at the Victorian House.

Chef-owner Bob Saccone honed his craft in Boston hotels, including the Ritz Carlton. There he learned Continental cooking, but in his own restaurant he interprets it with a deft, light touch. Sautéed shrimp and scallops ($16.95), for example, are prepared with a sauce of extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, basil, mint, lemon, and Chablis. Pork tenderloin ($15.95) is grilled, honey-glazed, and served on brandied fruit.

The dishes we enjoyed -- one from the regular menu, the other from the evening's specials -- showcased Saccone's skills. My baked rouladen of salmon and sole filet florentine ($17.95) was a beautiful arrangement of pink, green, and white spirals on a pool of red pepper purée. The freshness of both fish shone through; even the chopped spinach tasted as if it had just come from the garden.

This was a stellar dish, but so was my companion's grilled breast of duck ($22.95). The meat was marinated in red-wine vinaigrette, grilled until medium rare but still pink, and then cut into thin slices that were fanned out on the plate. The duck slices were topped with a rich sauce laced with chambourd liqueur -- just enough to add depth, but not overwhelm the meat's own flavor. Fresh blackberries added brightness and texture.

The vegetables accompanying these entrees were notable on their own. They included sautéed sugar-snap peas with fresh pea tendrils, match stick-size slices of roasted root vegetables, and a roasted, purple, organic potato with a garnish that epitomizes chef Saccone's imagination and care: between two gossamer thin slices of the potato was pressed a sprig of Italian parsley. The slices were flash fried to seal them, and baked in a low oven till crispy. The charming effect was a small stained-glass window that sprouted from the potato.

To complete such a feast we ended with the Victorian dessert sampler ($10.95), which highlights the pastry-making talents of Lori Saccone, the chef's daughter. The sampler consists of a chocolate petit four: three layers of dark chocolate cake and cream filling served on puréed raspberries; an adorable puff pastry basket with a filled with whipped cream and fresh strawberries and raspberries; and a swan made from two madeleines angled together with hazelnut cream. Coffee was served from a sterling silver pot; two foil covered chocolates sweetened the bill ($105.26), not including tip.