Golden eye

When owner Nick Aude see big, it's BIG. The portions and decor of this Shrewsbury steakhouse are undeniable.

by Margaret LeRoux

Golden's Steak House 271 Grafton Street, Shrewsbury 842-4321 Mon.-Fri. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner 5-10 p.m., Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun. 5-9 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

Steak lovers with an eye for value should head to Golden's Steak House. Prices are by no means cheap, but quantities are plentiful and entrees include a vegetable and potato or pasta.

Owner Nick Aude grew up in Canada and his memories of camping in the Rockies inspired the restaurant's log cabin decor, or perhaps I should I say, log mansion decor. The huge, high ceiling dining room with its mammoth beams contains two-dozen tables and more than a dozen large booths and a roaring fire in a giant, stone fireplace. The overall effect is quite striking. The over-size serving plates pick up the color scheme of burnt rose and forest green.

The restaurant has a pizza kitchen too (it's just for takeout orders), and serves as a symbol as to how Aude got his start in the restaurant business. He first opened two Golden Pizza places in Worcester.

Now to the menu: there is a separate lunch selection for the steakhouse, with sandwiches, burgers, vegetable sauté, and several junior-size versions of dinner items like an open face prime-rib sandwich for $7.95.

We visited early in the week when the crowd was sparse, but we've heard there's a wait of at least an hour on weekends (Golden's does not take reservations). On Wednesday nights there's live jazz, and Aude has plans for more live music on Monday and Tuesday nights, too.

My companion and I were seated in one of the spacious, tapestry-upholstered booths. "Comfortable," as Elaine would say to Jerry. We were greeted with a breezy "Hi guys" from our server who kept referring to us as "guys" throughout our meal. She was very accommodating, seeking out a container for the rest of my French onion soup ($3.25) when I wanted to take it home rather than spoil my appetite for dinner. It was one of the better renditions of French onion soup that I've had, with a rich beef broth, caramelized onions, and a thick slice of gooey provolone cheese on top. My companion ordered a cup of the soup of the day -- Creole chowder ($2.25), full of chopped shrimp, white fish (halibut, we guessed), celery, peppers, and enough gumbo spice to give it a real kick.

Our waitress brought a basket of hot, crusty rolls, which we used to soak up some of the dressing from the Caesar salad we shared ($5.95). It was huge but did not include anchovies, fresh Parmesan cheese, or fresh ground pepper. Plenty of cold, crisp romaine, however, and a tangy dressing.

Beef, of course, dominates the entrees at Golden's Steak House. Twin petite filet is $17.95, an 18 ounce porterhouse steak is $19.95, and a New York strip steak is available in two sizes (12 ounces for $13.95; 16 ounces for $17.95). Prime rib also comes in two sizes: 12 ounces for $14.95 and 18 ounces, $18.95.

There are a grilled tenderloin of pork with maple mustard glaze for $14.95 and chicken parmigiana over pasta for $12.95. Fish selections include grilled swordfish, $17.95, and my choice, cedar planked roasted salmon, $15.95.

The salmon was moist and tender and the skin was crisply browned from roasting. The topping -- sliced almonds coated with a honey glaze -- was the source of discussion. My companion thought it cloying; I didn't find it so, but a squirt of lemon or splash of white wine would have cut the sweetness. Alongside was a generous portion of quite excellent garlic smashed potatoes and a subtly spiced purée of butternut squash. Altogether a very nice meal.

My companion selected pepper-crusted sirloin in a bourbon sauce ($15.95). Peppery it was, but cooked perfectly medium rare as he requested, and the rich sauce absorbed some of the spiciness. The steak fries were delicious -- hefty wedges of potato, with skins on, oven roasted till crunchy. Squash was his vegetable too.

With our meal I had a glass of Firestone chardonnay ($7.50), and my companion enjoyed a Sam Adams draft ($3.75).

"Would you guys like to see the dessert tray?" our waitress inquired. It featured pecan pie, an interesting looking pyramid of chocolate mousse, cake and frosting, a rich wedge of chocolate cake with raspberry sauce, and our choice, tiramisu pie ($4.95). This variation of the chocolate-ladyfingers-coffee-marsala-marscapone combo had a chocolate crumb crust and the marsala flavor dominated. Too rich for just one person, it was a good choice to share. Our bill including tax, but not tip was $62.89.