As you like it

Exotic flavors and variety give diners plenty to eat about at Bamboo Hut

by Margaret LeRoux

The Bamboo Hut 1394 Main Street, Worcester 754-1755 Lunch Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 4-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-11 p.m. Major credit cards BYOB Handicap accessible

A welcome addition to Worcester's ethnic restaurants is the Bamboo Hut, which serves traditional Vietnamese cuisine and is located on Main Street just past Webster Square. Three of us dined on a recent week night and thoroughly enjoyed the hospitality of owner Nam Tran and his wife, Quyen, a native of Nha Trang province of Vietnam.

The restaurant originally was a residence; now the downstairs is a series of small dining rooms. The former glassed-in front porch holds a couple of tables with a view of the street. Walls and ceilings are painted a deep sea green. With bamboo accents around the windows, artwork from Southeast Asia, as well as the music of the region, the overall effect is soothing and exotic. The night we dined, the chilly winter winds were blowing outside, but inside it felt like we were in a tropical jungle.

Barely had we opened the menus when our host delivered a basket of shrimp chips. Made from a paste of dried shrimp and pressed into sheets, this distinctive Vietnamese version of a potato chip is deep fried in hot oil, changing in texture from papery to puffy. Crispy at first bite, the chips melt in your mouth -- cotton candy for adults. Needless to say, the basketful disappeared within minutes, while we debated between spring rolls -- a mixture of ground pork, vermicelli noodles, carrots, onions, and garlic, rolled in rice paper and deep fried ($4.95) and a vegetarian version of spring rolls ($3.95). Our host obligingly offered to combine the two appetizers and brought us a plate with one vegetarian roll and two regular spring rolls. Served with a vinegary Vietnamese fish dipping sauce, they were crispy and delicately spiced -- a tasty enticement to our appetites. We also enjoyed chicken satay ($4.95), two skewers of char-broiled chicken breast served with peanut sauce and accompanied by slivers of carrot and cucumber that were marinated in a tangy sauce.

The menu notes that Vietnamese cuisine, while influenced by its close proximity to China, takes advantage of aromatic spices, herbs, and fresh ingredients. We found this to be true in the Bamboo Hut's execution of our meals. Between appetizers and main course we were served steaming bowls of chicken broth with paper-thin slices of bamboo shoots and onions. I thought I could taste saffron, but according to Tran, it was Vietnamese spices. It was delicate and delicious.

Dinner selections are reasonably priced and offer something for meat eaters, seafood fans, and vegetarians alike. There are char-grilled salmon fillet served with rice and vegetables ($10.95), Vietnamese steak tenderloin marinated in spices and grilled ($9.95), and a flashy, flaming beef cooked table side ($8.95). For vegetarians there are stir fried noodles with carrots, pea pods, broccoli, onions, bean sprouts, and tofu ($7.95) and triple vegetarian delight with tofu, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms ($8.95).

The most expensive item on the menu is seafood combination with pan fried crispy noodles ($13.95).

We chose hot clay pot fish ($10.95), salmon, braised and served in a small clay pot. The soy-based marinade gave the fish a caramel color and sweet flavor. This was served with a bowl of white rice and stir fried peppers, onions, and broccoli.

Another selection, Bamboo Hut chicken ($8.95), featured two boneless breasts, marinated and grilled. The chicken was nicely charred -- not too bitter -- and still moist inside. Alongside, more rice and stir fried vegetables were served.

Our final choice was seafood combination -- which included shrimp, a fish ball (resembling a small meatball in size, texture, and tasting mildly fishy though spiced with herbs), squid, and scallops. The seafood was stir fried with pea pods, onions, broccoli, and peppers, and served on a large ring of crispy, fried vermicelli noodles ($13.95). The dish was an interesting assortment of textures and tastes. If you're adventurous enough to try fish ball and squid, you'll enjoy this dinner.

We were too full for dessert, though cheesecake, French mocha butter cream cake, strawberry shortcake, and flan are offered, all at $2.95. We noted the very appealing lunch menu, which features several noodle dishes -- bowls of soft vermicelli topped with sliced cucumber, slivered lettuce, bean sprouts, and fresh mint leaves. You select from grilled shrimp, pork, chicken or beef, to top the noodles, all for $5.95. We were also intrigued by a stew of chicken, curry, lemon grass, and coconut milk ($4.95), and we made a note to return soon for lunch. Our bill for dinner was $48.56 including tax but not tip.