Finally Michael's

Choices for everyone, a feast for all

by Margaret LeRoux

Finally Michael's
1280 Worcester Road (Route 9), Framingham

879-7345
Sun.-Thurs. 4-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-10:30 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

One of the few disadvantages of being a contributing, rather than a staff writer is missing out on the office holiday party. In past jobs, I've experienced the best and worst of holiday celebrating; one particularly painful memory includes a coworker who was forced to dress in an elf costume to hand out tasteless gifts. On the other hand, the best office party I attended was given at a popular restaurant, where the camaraderie among staff and administrators was definitely enhanced by the good food and wine.

So it was with a great deal of enjoyment that a friend and I recently dined at Finally Michael's where many office parties, big and small, were being celebrated. At nearby tables we counted at least four groups -- definitely not couples, we could tell from their demeanor -- who were talking about colleagues and work projects.

When a family crisis caused the waitress who was covering our section to leave unexpectedly, the rest of the staff pitched in to help. All of us diners, in a show of good spirits, refrained from complaining about delays or confusion over orders. Indeed, the service was very solicitous.

If you've never been to Finally Michael's, you'll find it a large restaurant that feels cozy. The low ceilings and book-lined shelves give the feeling of eating in a well-stocked library or den. Tablecloths and fabric napkins, candles, and vases filled with dried flowers add to the ambiance.

The two of us began with Benjamin's broiled littlenecks ($5.95), a half-dozen clams filled with chopped lobster, scallops, shrimp, and clams; heavy on the seafood and garlic, light on the breading. It was a delicious mixture, with a dash of lemon juice and generous sprinkling of fresh parsley adding sprightly touches. Alongside was a slice of grilled foccaccia, which we used to soak up some of the extra sauce. Other tempting appetizers include escargot-filled artichokes ($5.95), corn crab cakes ($7.95) and "mondo" prawns ($12.95), described as six colossal shrimp. My friend's entree included some of these huge shrimp, and believe me, they are the largest shrimp I've ever tasted.

There are several soups, including black bean with shaved beef tenderloin ($2 a cup; $3 for a bowl) and chupe de elote y papas -- Peruvian clam chowder ($3.50 a cup; $3.50 a bowl), but we've eaten at Finally Michael's before and know its portions are large. So we stuck with the program, ordering the salad that comes with entrees. My choice was the house salad with a subtly Roquefort-flavored dressing over mixed greens, cucumber slices, and shaved carrots. My friend ordered the Caesar salad for an extra $2.95 and was pleased that anchovies are included.

The list of entrees offers something for everyone except vegetarians, but there are à la carte offerings of whole-grain rice pilaf ($1.25) and fresh vegetables (95 cents); the night we dined, a special of potato and leek bisque ($3.75) was served.

I was in the mood for lamb and considered lamb shank Katherine ($13.95) braised with turnip, carrot, and onion, but then the roast rack of lamb ($18.95) being served to another diner was too tempting to resist. The rack was eight meaty chops with a crisp crust of bread crumbs mixed with whole-grain mustard and rosemary. Even though it came slightly more well-done than the medium rare I'd ordered, it was still moist and very flavorful. A large mound of garlic mashed potatoes occupied the middle of the plate -- I'd have given the lamb center stage -- they were only okay, not outstanding.

With the lamb I enjoyed a glass of Cotes du Rhone ($5.95); my companion sipped Chateau St. Jean sauvignon blanc ($5.95).

Other good choices among entrees include: grilled mahi-mahi with pineapple salsa and seafood saffron risotto ($17.95), steak O'Brien ($14.95), marinated sirloin with garlic grilled portobello mushrooms, and pan seared salmon fillet with corn crab cake and spiked tomato relish ($17.95). The menu lists several veal dishes, but they were all unavailable the night we dined.

My companion selected seafood tagliatelle ($17.95) and received an enormous bowl of red and green pasta strips tossed in a rich lobster-brandy butter and heaped with more shellfish than either of us could eat in one sitting. There were at least four of the "mondo" shrimp, several large, sea scallops, half a lobster tail, a few mussels and clams as well. The scallops, clams, and mussels were tender; the shrimp appropriately crunchy. This was truly a feast.

With such bountiful main courses we didn't even attempt dessert, though we'd normally be lured by the special Bourbon Street pecan pie à la mode ($4.95). Our bill including tax but not tip was $68.72.