After the fall

Wachusett Village Inn Cafe and Restaurant is a perfect escape from the slopes<

by Margaret LeRoux

Wachusett Village Inn Cafe & Restaurant
9 Village Inn Road, Westminster
(978) 874-2000
Lunch Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Sun.-Thurs. 5-9 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.
Brunch Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

The new Wachusett Village Inn Cafe and Restaurant is a contemporary version of the traditional New England country inn. It's located past the Wachusett Mountain ski area off Route 2 in Westminster, so you get to drive through the countryside to reach it. But once inside, you'll notice decor that's more modern than early American. The cafe is done in shades of burgundy with sleek dark wood tables, while the restaurant is brighter with white walls, a sage green ceiling, and burgundy upholstered booths. Pretty white shutters at the windows and colonial-style chandeliers give the room warmth, along with big fireplaces in both the restaurant and cafe. You can imagine crowds of skiers relaxing here after a day on the slopes.

On a recent midweek night only a few guests were dining; a waiter/bartender/kitchen assistant was busy accommodating everyone. Nevertheless, he rose admirably to the challenge. He answered questions about the menu and filled our requests -- always maintaining a good sense of humor. At the end of our meal he even brewed a fresh pot of coffee when we asked for decaf.

We began by considering the appetizers, fairly standard like spicy chicken wings ($4.95), stuffed mushrooms ($4.95), nachos ($5.95), and shrimp cocktail ($8.95). A few departures from the ordinary include baked brie served with warm Italian bread and apple slices ($4.95). There are also several entree salads; a fresh fruit platter with yogurt ($6.95), citrus chicken served over a bed of greens with oranges and grapefruit ($7.95), Mama Leone's tuna salad with chunks of tuna steak and roasted peppers in a balsamic vinaigrette ($7.95), and taco salad served in a tortilla bowl ($7.95).

We selected mussels ($7.95) from the evening's specials posted on a blackboard in the cafe (a bit hard to read from the restaurant). Our waiter disappeared briefly and returned with a big bowl of them: fragrant, fresh, and seasoned with garlic, chopped tomatoes, and a splash of white wine. They were delicious. When we asked if there might be some bread to dip in the sauce, our waiter made another quick trip to the kitchen, this time bringing back a basket of warm, crusty whole-grain bread, chewy enough to stand up to the mussel sauce.

With the mussels, my friend and I sipped glasses of the house chardonnay ($3.50). The wine list has a nice variety of bottles but few choices in the "by the glass" category.

The Wachusett Inn's menu is designed with the overnight guests in mind. You can order anything from a bowl of soup, a burger, individual pizza, or steak and baked potato. I considered pasta Tomasio with plum tomatoes, basil, garlic, and pine nuts ($7.95), and a Jamaican chicken sandwich served with pineapple compote ($5.95), but settled on one of the Inn's specialties, Wachusett apple chicken ($9.95). My friend's choice was one of the menu's simpler offerings, baked haddock ($8.50).

Salad is not included with entrees but à la carte versions include spinach salad ($4.25), Caesar salad ($4.95), and mesclun salad ($3.95). Clam chowder includes smoked salmon ($4.25), and onion soup is topped with Vermont cheddar cheese instead of the standard Swiss ($3.95).

We were still busy with the mussels when our entrees arrived. Mine was described as baked with apple and topped with cheddar cheese, Vermont maple syrup, and Calvados brandy sauce.

"Sounds a little weird," my friend commented. It could have been if the chef had overplayed any of the ingredients. But he didn't and his restraint made for an interesting rather than strange-tasting dish. The chicken was a moist, boneless breast, the apple a thin slice of Granny Smith, more tangy than sweet. There was but a hint of maple and brandy flavors in the sauce and the cheddar cheese was mild -- here, a sharper variety might have been better. Overall, the effect was pleasant. Alongside were roasted new potatoes and a vegetable assortment including broccoli, green beans, pea pods, bean sprouts in a soy-based sauce.

My friend's haddock was as fresh as the mussels. Dusted with bread crumbs and served in a lemon sauce, it was simple and flavorful. Between our two dishes, we gave the Inn's kitchen a high grade for handling complicated and simple dishes with equal skill.

Desserts, all priced at $4.25, include a tempting-sounding Vermont maple crème brûlée, apple crisp, and there was white chocolate, raspberry, and macadamia nut ice cream served over raspberry sauce. But we'd enjoyed too many mussels to have room for dessert. Over coffee ($1.25), we promised ourselves crème brûlée on a return visit -- the Inn offers sleigh rides once the snow falls. Our bill came to $37.35 including tax not tip.