Salad days

Want some fresh talk? Go to the bar at Coldbrook Restaurant

by Margaret LeRoux

Coldbrook Restaurant
864 Old Coldbrook Road, Barre
(978) 355-4648
Wed.-Sat. 4-9 p.m.
Sun. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

If I said "hotbed of restaurant activity," you wouldn't automatically reply "Barre." Unless you have friends, acquaintances, or relatives in this sleepy little hamlet about 45 minutes from downtown Worcester, you're probably not even aware of the handful of popular restaurants that have recently updated their menus.

Lately, the lucky locals have been feasting on wild mushroom ravioli at the Jenkins Inn and Restaurant, or garden farfalle with chevre and toasted pine nuts at the Harding Estate, or veal puttanesca at the Coldbrook Country Club and Restaurant.

I'd been hearing about Barre's restaurant renaissance from a friend who's partial to the family-owned Coldbrook. Her tantalizing descriptions of the food persuaded me to make the trek. Past Rutland, through the woods we drove, and down a long and winding road (a sign on Route 122 directs the way), we came upon a large A-frame building in the middle of a field -- the Coldbrook is also home to a municipal golf course and camping ground.

Even though it was a midweek night, many of the tables in the large dining room were filled. By the time we finished our meals, we understood the attraction: a warm atmosphere, fresh ingredients, and big portions.

My friend raved about the restaurant's salad bar, so we skipped appetizers. If you're a fan of salad bars, you'll love the bounty at Coldbrook's. We started with cups of piping hot chicken wild-rice soup. Thick with mushrooms, carrots, and onions, it was hearty and flavorful.

After finishing our soups, back we went to select among bowls of mesclun greens, fresh spinach leaves, and all the crunchy veggies we could fit on our plates. There was also a basket of tiny, homemade muffins and slices of Italian bread.

During the course of the evening, we were attended to by a parade of servers. A young bus girl filled our water glasses to the brim, and then returned with a glass of ice chips to keep them cool. Our waitress was friendly and helpful. While we were at the salad bar, she noticed that I'd dropped my knife and replaced it with a clean one.

Before we'd finished our salads, the manager stopped at our table to inquire how we were doing. Folks in Barre must be spoiled with such attention; by comparison, diners in many a Worcester restaurant are practically neglected.

While we ate our salads we sipped glasses of Mondavi sauvignon blanc ($3.50) and chardonnay ($4). We studied the extensive menu, which offers three different sizes of sirloin steak: a 10 ounce strip steak ($11.95), a 14 ounce steak ($13.95), sirloin tips ($11.95), and prime rib ($14.95).

There are several chicken entrees, including country fried ($9.95) and sauté with broccoli served over pasta ($10.95). Seafood choices include broiled haddock ($9.95), fried seafood platter ($12.95), baked stuffed shrimp ($11.95), and grilled swordfish (market price).

Veal is a specialty here, served piccata, puttanesca, à la fromage, and marsala (each priced $10.95).

I was attracted to the pasta offerings which include shrimp Florentine ($11.95) served over linguini. My companion loves veal and chose the marsala variation and penne with oil and garlic.

In due time our waitress brought the entrees. Mine was a large plate of linguine topped with fresh spinach leaves, sautéed with mushroom halves and several large shrimp. It was colorful, too; the pink shrimp were a pretty contrast to the bright green spinach. The creamy wine and garlic sauce enhanced rather than overpowered the other ingredients. I was struck by how well they complemented each other.

My companion's veal, too, was fresh, although this time the sauce was just a bit too subtle. With a sprinkle of salt and pepper, though, it was very pleasing. The penne was firm and quite garlicky.

For dessert we had slices of Snickers cheesecake, light and custardy with caramel, nuts, and chocolate topping, and chocolate mousse cake, dark and rich ($3.50 each). Our bill came to $47.15 including tax but not tip. n