French confection

A meal to remember at the White Horse Inn

by Margaret LeRoux

The White Horse Inn at Vernon Stiles Thompson Common
Thompson, Connecticut
(860) 923-9571
Lunch Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Sun. brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Tues.-Thurs. 5-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m., Sun. 4-8 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

When I telephoned to make a reservation at the White Horse Inn and was asked, "Is there any special request you might have?" I immediately ratcheted up my anticipation of the dinner to come. I had already been looking forward to the Inn's new "Autumn in Paris" menu; and a 20-minute drive to Thompson, Connecticut, fit into my schedule better than a trip to France. The idea that there might be something else the innkeepers could do to make me happy was a powerful lure.

And happy I was, a few days later, as my dining companion and I sank into a big overstuffed sofa in front of a flickering fire in the White Horse Inn's parlor. At the end of a busy week, we relished our fireside interlude while a table was prepared in one of several small dining rooms.

The Inn's new owners, Jacqueline and Andrew Silverston, have completely redecorated the historic building on the town common. Built in 1814, it was visited by the Marquis de Lafayette in 1825 and has been a popular refuge for travelers since the 19th century. The Silvertons have given the Inn a sophisticated new look by painting and decorating the parlor and dining rooms in a soothing, creamy white. Planked floors are polished to a high gloss, and classical music plays softly in the background. Only because I was also hungry, was I persuaded to leave my spot near the fire.

At our table we were greeted warmly by our waiter, who remained attentive throughout the evening. We noticed that the menu suggests wines, available by the glass, for each item and each course. We began with a shared appetizer of coquille St. Jacques ($5.95) and glasses of the suggested Clos Du Bois chardonnay ($4.25). The scallops arrived sizzling hot, presented in a napkin-wrapped shell. They were tender and sweet; the mushroom sauce, splashed with sauterne, played off the shellfish very well. We scooped up the remaining sauce with crusty rolls, which we also dabbed with sweet butter that had bits of fresh rosemary in it. By the end of our first course, we felt pampered; when our meal ended two hours later, we were amazed at how quickly the time had flown by.

Salads of mixed greens, cucumber slices, and tomatoes were notable for the flavorful dressings, mine a creamy roasted garlic, and my companion's a house balsamic vinaigrette.

Chef David Bergeron, who came to the White Horse Inn from the Whistling Swan in Sturbridge, has created a sophisticated menu, including mustard and coriander crusted salmon fillet, oven roasted and served over wilted greens ($17.95); veal marsala-piccata, sautéed with capers, lemon, and marsala, finished with cream, butter, and artichoke hearts ($17.95). There are also roasted Long Island duckling ($18.95) and a char-broiled sirloin served with Cognac peppercorn sauce (12 ounce $17.95; 16 ounce $23.95). The French menu offers gratinée of sole de Florence, stuffed with a delicate fish mousse and topped with sauce velouté ($23.95), and tournedos of filet Diane, pan seared with onions, mushrooms, and green peppercorns ($23.95).

My choice for the evening was a rustic French dish, lapin chasseur ($23.95), rabbit braised with mushrooms and root vegetables in a red wine sauce until the meat falls from the bones in tender chunks. Our waiter skillfully served a generous portion of the rabbit from its piping hot casserole; the dinner plate contained the accompanying vegetables, thinly sliced, braised carrots, new potatoes, and a light and silky soufflé of corn. I chose the recommended wine, Napa Ridge pinot noir ($4.75). Softly spicy, it was perfect with the rabbit.

My companion always favors seafood, and the White Horse bouillabaisse ($21.95) came as close to perfection as any he's eaten. The broth, heady with the delicious scents of wine, garlic, and saffron, was a rich backdrop; it didn't overpower the freshness of the seafood: shrimp, New Zealand mussels, scallops, clams, and pieces of salmon. We spooned more of this delicious broth on rice pilaf, which was served on the side. His wine selection was Murphy Goode sauvignon blanc ($6.75).

With our waiter's promise of "a wonderful selection of desserts," I abandoned the remaining rabbit casserole. We shared a wedge of chocolate pecan tart ($5.95), pretty as a picture on a plate drizzled with fudge and caramel sauces and a mound of whipped cream. What a high note on which to end our meal -- the tart's rich chocolate filling, crunchy pecans, and crisp, buttery crust satisfied our senses and taste buds. The bill, including tax but not tip was $86.71. Considering the quality of the food, wine, and service -- and compared to trans Atlantic plane fare, quite a reasonable substitute for dinner in Paris.