Caffé Espresso

Pina and Joseph Conte prove you can go back again. And, in the case of this Italian eatery, you should.

by Margaret LeRoux

19 Wall Street, Worcester; 767-1818
Mon.-Tues. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Wed.-Thurs. 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.,
Fri.-Sat. 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 3-9 p.m.
Major credit cards
BYOB
Handicap accessible

Caffe Espresso, the small Wall Street restaurant, has changed hands several times in the past four years, but now the original owners, Pina and Joseph Conte, are back. That's good news. The Contes' approach -- offering authentic Italian food at bargain prices in a friendly, informal setting -- is a winning combination. While this is tried and true along Shrewsbury Street, Caffé Espresso brings it home to Wall Street. It's friendly little place where neighbors drop in for a cappucino and some local gossip, then stay for dinner because the kitchen aromas are so attractive.

The evening we dined, the main area with a counter, several tables, and booths was about half full. We headed for a booth when one of the waitresses asked if we preferred non-smoking. We said yes, and were shown to the other dining room, a step up from the main room. The two of us and another couple were the only customers in this room, and while we enjoyed the privacy, we couldn't help feeling a little envious of the crowd in the other room. Clearly, that's where all the action was.

Our very competent waitress made us feel welcome, though. First, she brought us a plate of complimentary bruschetta, two large pieces of crusty Italian bread heaped with a mixture of chopped, garden-fresh tomatoes and garlic. It was thoughtful and delicious. Then, her enthusiastic description of the evening's specials lured us to try clams steamed in white wine with pancetta, fresh tomatoes, and herbs ($6.95) as a first course. The large platter of clams was fresh and sweet, and so was tomato and wine broth. We mopped it up with more of that hearty bread.

My friend is from a large Italian family, and she's a gourmet cook, so when she urged me to judge the restaurant on its pasta and veal dishes, I took her advice. Caffé Espresso offers veal in several sauces, including marsala, piccata, and limone, all for less than $10. I settled on vitello Tatiana ($9.50), veal medallions sautéed with sun dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, artichokes, and onions in a white wine garlic sauce. Along with the veal I was offered potatoes or pasta, and chose gemelli, cork screw twists of pasta with oil and garlic.

My friend zeroed in on fettucine carbonara, pasta tossed with pancetta, caramelized onions, and cheese in a fresh cream sauce ($8.95). Other inviting choices include pasta primavera in cream or clear sauce ($7.95); homemade cavatelli with broccoli in a white wine garlic sauce ($8.95); frutti di mare: fresh mussels, calamari, shrimp, and clams in white wine garlic sauce (8.95). There are also veal and chicken parmesan in marinara sauce over pasta ($8.95 for veal, $7.95 for chicken) and risotto with calamari, shrimp, mussels, and clams ($10.95).

Not to slight the chicken and fish on Caffé Espresso's menu, there is variety at moderate prices here, too. Boneless breasts of chicken are served in wine sauce with mushrooms, in a brandy sauce, and in a fresh tomato sauce, all for $7.95. Fresh haddock in a lobster cream sauce is only $9.95, as is salmon piccata and filet of sole with crabmeat stuffing. We plan to return and sample some of these offerings.

Salad is served with all dinners; we were offered an assortment of homemade dressings. My friend chose zinfandel vinaigrette, while I opted for a yogurt-based cucumber dill dressing. Both were very good atop glass bowls of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, and onion slices.

Our very generous portions of dinner arrived soon after. My friend's fettucine was tender, the silky sauce wasn't too heavy. The saltiness of the pancetta played well against the sweetness of the caramelized onions. Everything worked together to create a dreamy dish; my fork kept straying to the portion I was offered for tasting.

Don't think I wasn't satisfied with my veal. It was fork-tender and delicious. The sun dried tomatoes gave the wine sauce such a nice bite that the roasted red peppers and artichokes were almost redundant. I wish there had been fewer onions, but that's only my personal preference; onion lovers will appreciate their abundance in this dish.

The plate of gemelli was, in contrast, a little bland. But the addition of some Parmesan cheese, and a bit of the sauce from the veal dish perked it up.

We were almost too full for dessert, but our waitress described homemade tiramisu ($3.75), and we succumbed. We shared a generous portion of moist sponge cake layered with a coffee and marsala sauce, marscapone cheese topped with whipped cream and chocolate. It was heavenly. My cappuccino and my friend's espresso were very good too. Our bill including tax but not tip was $34.54.