Willy's Tuscan Trattoria

It takes a steak house to perfect risotto

by Margaret LeRoux

Willy's Tuscan Trattoria
582 Main Street, Shrewsbury
842-7800
Mon.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

If you're anxious to sample Tuscan cuisine, the latest trend in Italian cooking, you need travel no further east than downtown Shrewsbury where Willy's Tuscan Trattoria offers some delightful examples of the simple, earthy cooking of this northern region of Italy.

Inside the cozy dining room is a handful of tables and booths with checkered tablecloths. Rose colored walls, abundant (though fake) ivy creeping down from shelves loaded with wine bottles and Italian cookbooks, ceramic tiles on the floor, a charming little marble-topped bar, and the heady aroma of garlic combine to transport anyone with a smidgen of imagination.

Pretend that the Shrewsbury Common across the street is a sunny piazza with a bubbling fountain, that the tractor trailer trucks lumbering down Route 140 are wandering herds of cows. At Willy's, such flights of fancy are easy to take while nibbling on crusty foccaccia bread (baked in the restaurant's own ovens) dipped in saucers of garlic-infused oil. On a recent Friday night, my companion and I were welcomed cheerfully by a busy waitstaff of two. The tables and all but one of the booths were filled with families and couples clearly enjoying Willy's ambiance; we were pleased to be seated so quickly.

Looking over the wine list, we noticed that selections available by the glass were pretty pedestrian. Other than an M. J. Vallejo chardonnay, they are generically listed -- merlot, Chianti, etc. We decided to sample from a bottle of Lamberti Pinot Grigio ($12.95), a light and pleasant complement to our meals.

Willy's oversized menus contain an assortment of appetizers, including roasted garlic ($2.95), fried calamari rings ($7.95), and antipasto ($5.95). We chose a salad platter of fresh buffalo mozzarella slices with tomatoes and basil ($5.95). The cheese was fresh tasting, though fairly bland. The balsamic vinaigrette and our addition of salt and pepper improved the taste. There was an abundance of shredded fresh basil, a big plus, but the tomatoes were not garden fresh as you would expect at this time of year. I'd try this dish again when tomatoes are at their peak; then it will reach its potential.

Because the trattoria shares the same kitchen as the renowned Willy's Steakhouse (as well as the culinary talents of chef Kenneth Novotny) the range of the menu is much greater than you'd expect. Steak and beef offerings include braciola ($11.95) as well as a 10-ounce sirloin fried with peppers, onions, mushrooms, and cheese. Fish choices include fillet of sole ($9.95), haddock in a white wine sauce ($9.95), and sautéed gulf shrimp ($10.95).

Veal, chicken, and eggplant are offered in several styles, including Parmigiano, piccata, Marsala, cacciatore, and scaloppini. A dish I've marked for a return visit is rotisserie chicken marinated in lemon juice, garlic, rosemary, and oregano, served with roasted garlic potatoes ($7.95 for half; $13.95 whole).

Pizza also plays a major role at Willy's; you can create your own or select from a list of specialties.

Willy's offers a variety of pasta and risotto dishes, too. On this visit I focused on risotto; I've loved it ever since my first taste several years ago in New York's Little Italy. Risotto is made with the short grain Arborio rice simmered in butter and/or olive oil with broth -- chicken, beef, fish, or vegetable -- and wine added gradually until the consistency is both al dente and slightly soupy. Willy's offers 16 varieties of risotto; I settled on risotto di mare, made with shrimp, scallops, and mussels ($9.95). It was superb. The generous bowl of parsley-flecked rice had absorbed the rich flavors of homemade fish stock and wine broth; the seafood -- two huge shrimp, three large scallops, and five mussels -- were tender and fresh. The grated parmesan cheese our waitress offered as topping was just the right finishing touch.

Just as good was my companion's choice, gnocchi d'Abruzzo ($9.95), small nuggets of potato based pasta sautéed with veal, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and sun-dried tomatoes. This dish also featured a rich tasting broth. The gnocchi were a tender contrast to the other hearty ingredients.

The two of us feasted happily until we could eat no more. The leftovers of our generous portions were delicious again when re-heated at home.

Lots of chocolate among dessert selections, but next time we'll stick to canoli. We thought chocolate cake ($2.99) and mocha torte ($2.99) were more sweet than chocolatey.

Dinner for two including tax but not tip was $51.21.