Shore thing

If it's not fresh, it won't be served at Nantucket Seafood

by Margaret LeRoux

Nantucket Seafood
1 Exchange Place, Worcester
752-3474
Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sun. 4-9 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

As we headed out the door of Nantucket Seafood after a recent dinner, the two attendants stationed in front called to us. "Good night! Was everything okay? Did you enjoy your meal?" Ordinarily we would have been astonished at their concern. But we'd encountered such outstanding service from the entire staff during our visit, that this final display of bonhomie wasn't at all surprising.

It started with the downstairs host who assured us that, even without a reservation on a Friday night, we could have a table within 20 minutes. He directed us upstairs to a cozy and smoke-free lounge where we sipped glasses of wine -- Covey Run Johannesburg Riesling ($4.25) and Parducci Sauvignon Blanc ($4.25) -- while perusing the menu. The lounge offers comfy, overstuffed chairs and a view of the Exchange Place courtyard. It's so congenial, we noticed that more than one pair of fellow diners opted to stay in the lounge for dinner. A waitress offered us menus and suggested that we order appetizers. From an inviting list that includes lots of shellfish choices, swordfish on a skewer, and, when available, Beluga caviar, we chose oysters Nantucket ($8.95) and clam fritters ($4.95).

Meanwhile, a table was set for us in one of the smaller, dark wood paneled dining rooms. Table tops are bare, but a small vase of colorful flowers graces each one. We noticed the silverware pattern resembles fish scales, a fanciful touch.

Another waitress introduced herself as our server for the evening, and then set out to find our appetizers. She promptly returned with two gleaming, black, shell-shaped plates. One contained six plump oysters baked on the half shell with lime juice and herbs, topped with a sprinkling of cracker crumbs. They were delicious; we gobbled them up in an instant. The clam fritters, a half-dozen little balls of chopped, fresh clams deep fried in spicy breading, were tasty but filling. We saved some to take home, and they were just as good when we reheated them.

Nantucket offers several soups and chowders. I chose a cup of seafood bisque ($3.25), a delicately flavored, lobster-based broth simmered with herbs, cream, and sherry -- not too much of any of them. The flavor is delightfully subtle and lets the seafood (bits of lobster, shrimp, scallops, and whitefish) come through.

Salads were served next. My companion's Caesar, which was included in his meal, and my house salad ($3.95) came on large plates edged in a confetti-like sprinkling of herbs and arugula. Mine included briny olives and a few fresh raspberries. A basket of assorted bread slices came with the salads; we especially liked the pesto topped herb bread.

Nantucket offers no less than 14 different selections from grey sole to monkfish fillet under the heading "today's catch" and several seafood and pasta dishes and six "house favorites," including the signature dish, a baked salmon in a Dijon potato crust. The choices almost overwhelmed us, but when I spied red snapper ($19.95), a favorite that I don't often see on local menus, my mind was made up. My companion went for variety with fresh scallops, shrimp, and pan-roasted tuna tips on bow-tie pasta ($17.95).

My desire for a tender, juicy, red snapper fillet went unfulfilled; though a generous portion, the fish was, sadly, overcooked and dry. The accompanying red bliss potatoes roasted with herbs and garlic and three pencil-thin spears of steamed asparagus were delicious, however. My companion's dish was everything he'd hoped for: shrimp with some bite to it, tender scallops, and tuna medium rare and juicy. A parmesan cream sauce had slices of fresh mushrooms and chopped tomatoes. He graciously shared a generous helping with me.

Though disappointed with the red snapper, I consoled myself with the dessert tray. My choice was the prettiest selection, a fruit boat ($5.95) of puff pastry topped with custard, slices of strawberry, kiwi, blueberries, and whipped cream. I returned the favor and shared it. Our bill was $73.30, not including tip.

On a return visit at lunch , a friend and I enjoyed more of Nantucket's friendly service. This time I chose one of the daily specials, grilled maco shark served with a pineapple curry sauce, and grilled salmon with a honey mustard sauce ($8.95). The two generous portions of fish were succulent; the maco stood up to the flavors of pineapple and curry, while the salmon was enhanced by its sauce. A serving of smashed red bliss potatoes was so good, it almost overshadowed the fish. My companion's scallops baked with sliced Greek olives, tomatoes, garlic, and feta cheese ($7.95) were a delicious mingling of Mediterranean flavors.