Primo's

Chef Petrou banks on a move from Webster to Shrewsbury Street. And the interest is skyrocketing.

by Margaret LeRoux

Primo's
157 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
754-9709
Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Tues.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 5-11 p.m.
Major credit cards
BYOB
Handicap accessible

It was a lucky accident, says Joe Petrou, chef-owner of Primo's, describing how his restaurant became the latest addition to the Shrewsbury Street scene. Lucky for him when a friend bought the building and offered to lease him space. Lucky, too, for fans of Italian food. On Shrewsbury Street, where the competition among restaurants is formidable, Primo's is definitely a contender.

At the new restaurant, Petrou expands the repertoire he developed as owner of Primo's Pasta in Webster. His versions of Italian standards like ravioli and manicotti as well as several creative, new dishes are imaginatively prepared and served in generous proportions.

They're cooked with enthusiasm too. Our table was near the open kitchen, and throughout the evening, we could hear sauté pans bang onto the counter and occasionally see flames flare up from the stove. The two waitresses bustled in and out of the kitchen heeding Petrou's call, "Get this food served while it's still hot!"

Primo's is a charming little place housed in what was a small, neighborhood bank. The former lobby -- no bigger than the average living room -- is now the main dining area, with eight tables crammed into it. The kitchen is behind the tellers' windows on one side; a few more tables and the old bank safe are on the other side. Screened windows and ceiling fans keep the room cool. Snatches of conversation and arias from Italian operas that play in the background combine to create a high-energy atmosphere.

We had called ahead for a reservation, so were spared a wait outside. Once seated, the four in our group studied the menu and the list of specials posted on the wall. We noticed that several diners came prepared for Primo's BYOB policy; on this night, we opted for ice tea, sodas, and ice water, thoughtfully served with a slice of lemon.

We chose antipasto ($6.50) from a short list of appetizer salads. It was different from other restaurants' antipasto platters of meat and cheese; this one featured raw broccoli and slices of tomato, pepperoni, Italian sausage, and lots of hot peppers served on a bed of romaine with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing. With the antipasto came a basket of crisp and chewy Italian bread -- some of the best I've eaten; we quickly devoured it. We also ordered bruschetta ($4.75), another different variation on what is usually served. Primo's bruschetta has four large pieces of toasted Italian bread topped with melted cheese and herbs, surrounding a mound of chopped tomatoes, onions, and garlic in a tangy vinaigrette. We spooned the cold tomato mixture onto the hot bread and enjoyed the combination of flavors and temperatures.

Two of us chose specials from the board: sauté shrimp and vegetables on pasta ($10.95), and my selection, sauté of salmon and scallops over pasta ($11.95).The other two ordered from the regular menu: cheese tortellini ($8.50), and baked manicotti with meatballs ($7.95).

The bite-size pieces of salmon and scallops were cooked for just enough time in the sauté pan to be tender. They were joined by chopped mushrooms, red onions, and fresh spinach leaves in a red-pepper cream sauce. Served on a mound of ziti in a colorful pottery bowl, this dish was both elegant and hearty at the same time. By hearty, I mean that I ate my fill and barely made a dent in the serving. It was delicious reheated a day later.

Tortellini, a cheese lover's dream, was another eye-catching dish. The plump, hat-shaped pasta filled with ricotta cheese were surrounded by a ring of bright green, steamed broccoli florets, and the romano and parmesan cheese sauce were brightened by bits of chopped fresh tomato and green onions. My companion smiled as he speared the last of the tortellini. "This was as good as the tortellini I've eaten in Greenwich Village," he said.

Manicotti, one of the red sauce dishes on the menu, was outstanding. The sauce had a fresh, rather than overcooked flavor, as is the case sometimes with tomato sauce. A large meatball was tender, as was the cheese-filled manicotti crepe.

In a telephone interview later, Petrou noted that "everything I make has to be fresh -- I have no freezer." Much of the pasta at Primo's is fresh, too, made by Dona DeSantis of D'Pasta in Shrewsbury.

Desserts at Primo's are made by Sheila Trapasso, and include chocolate espresso tart ($3.25) and double chocolate mousse tart ($3.25), which we shared. Both were delicious. The bill for four of us, including tax but not tip, was $58.30.