Hot and chili

Iquana Cantina is a funky joint

by Margaret LeRoux

Iquana Cantina
1658 Worcester Road (Rte. 9), Framingham
875-1188
Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Fri. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sat. 3-11 p.m.
Sun. 3-9 p.m.
Full bar
MC, Visa
Handicap accessible

The Iguana Cantina is a funky little Mexican restaurant just across the (Framingham) border on Route 9. The margaritas here are generous, the wait staff energetic, and the decibel level is high. A friend and I visited on a raucous Wednesday night; we wondered if the crowds are much louder on weekends.

The restaurant looks like a cabin in the woods; the decor is fanciful and eclectic. The ceiling of the bar is strung with lights in the shape of chili peppers and cacti. In the dining room, piñatas and assorted whirligigs bob overhead, along with swirling fans and giant lampshades. The walls and floor are wooden; tables topped with plastic cloths are crammed close to each other. Several times during our meal we were drawn into a birthday celebration -- complete with straw cowboy hats for the entire family -- going on next to us. But it's all good natured; don't stand on ceremony and you won't be offended. And if you want a cowboy hat of your own, it's for sale along with T-shirts, salsas, corn chips, and guacamole.

Back to those margaritas; they come in hefty 16 ounce glasses, made with fresh juices, not a mix, and gold tequila. I had Izzy's favorite ($4.50), a frozen blend, while my friend who prefers a straight-up version, had the Acapulco gold ($5), a mix of Harlequin golden orange cognac, gold tequila, and fresh citrus juices. Both were delicious.

Our waitress brought a generous basket of tortilla chips and two small bowls of fresh salsa; ripe tomatoes and cilantro were the dominant flavors. So taken were we with the chips and salsa, that we skipped appetizers, though the Iguana's selection is plentiful. Some of the more unusual among them: Floridian gator bites ($6.95), fried medallions of alligator coated in corn meal and served with citrus mayonnaise; coco loco shrimp ($6.95), dipped in beer batter and shredded coconut; Iggy's riblet ($6.95), one-half rack of baby back ribs, and for the indecisive, Texas pu pu ($8.95 for 2; $11.95 for four, $14.95 for six) a combination of snake bites, corn fritters, buffalo wings, and coco loco shrimp served with four different sauces.

The extensive menu offers an array of Southwestern favorites, including burritos served with rice and beans (one for $5.25; two for $8.95), fajitas ($8.95 for vegetarian; $11.95 for shrimp), tacos, enchiladas, and quesadillas, all priced at one for $5.25, two for $7.25, and three for $9.25. All are offered in beef, chicken, veggie, or cheese varieties.

There are also burgers, wrap, and pocket sandwiches -- I was tempted by Key West tilapia ($6.50), described as a mildly flavored white fish fillet prepared grilled, fried, or blackened -- on a soft bun with sautéed onions and cole slaw.

Six different dinner salads include pasta la vista baby ($6.95), grilled chicken and veggies in smoked tomato dressing with penne; Palm Beach palmito ($6.95), hearts of palm, avocado, red onion, peppers and tomatoes in a citrus vinaigrette over mixed greens; and Santa Lucia fajita ($6.95), grilled chicken, beef, or veggies with onion and peppers on mixed greens in a tortilla shell.

That's just the first two pages of the menu. The next section offers items from the grill including roast chicken ($8.95), Cozumel shrimp ($11.95), sirloin steak ($12.95), lemon peppered tuna steak ($12.95), and several combos.

From an imaginative list of specials recited by our waitress, my friend chose "fishing in Cuban waters" ($13.95), a hefty portion of grilled marlin and three, large, coconut battered shrimp. The marlin was topped with "mojo" sauce, a mixture of oranges, coconut milk, and garlic. Both the shrimp and the marlin were tender and juicy; the latter tasted a lot like grilled tuna. Surrounding the fish were a colorful mound of yellow rice, mango salsa, black beans, fried plantains, and a salad of chopped cucumbers, carrots, and celery. The presentation -- on a gorgeous china plate colorfully decorated with splashes of turquoise, gold, and orange -- was outstanding.

I opted for shrimp fajitas ($11.95), which suffered in comparison. The shrimp were pretty puny, especially next to those on my friend's plate. The veggies -- grilled peppers and onions, topped with melted cheese were tasty, and a side order of guacamole was fresh and creamy. But if I had to do it over again, I'd fish in Cuban waters!

We split dessert: a slice of key lime pie ($3.50), served just as I like it, tart and creamy, sans meringue topping. Instead, dollops of whipped cream were garnished with fresh blueberries. We finished with coffee ($1.50) that could have been a lot stronger and hotter. But altogether, a most satisfactory meal. Total bill including drinks, but not the tip, was $44.52.