Taster's choice

Peppercorns offers quality food and a great variety

by Margaret LeRoux

Peppercorns Grille & Bar
455 Park Avenue, Worcester
752-7711
Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. noon-11 p.m., Sun. 4-9 p.m.
All major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

Three friends with wildly different tastes in food gathered in Worcester recently and challenged me to find a place where we could dine, reminisce, and all find something pleasing on the menu. Luckily, I had just eaten lunch at the new Peppercorns, and while there checked out the dinner menu. What variety -- everything from burgers and pizza to tournedos and lobster ravioli with the most expensive item less than $16. "No problem," I assured my friends. "I've found the perfect spot." After our dinner, they wholeheartedly agreed.

Peppercorns in Worcester (there is also a Peppercorns in Milford) bills itself as an upscale family restaurant with an Italian influence. The extensive menu offers pasta, seafood, chicken, veal, and beef, specialties of the house, pizza, and burgers. The kids menu features cheese pizza, spaghetti and meatballs, chicken fingers, and hot dogs with fries.

Each of the two large dining rooms is decorated differently. Gray, metallic walls give one an urban sophistication. The olive green walls and redwood stained furniture in the other conjure up images of Tuscany. Both have features that add warmth and decrease the decibel level. In the "gray" dining room, booths are upholstered; the floor in the "green" room is carpeted and the tables arranged at comfortable distances.

Service was prompt and friendly; hostesses greeted us and, as we departed, asked if we enjoyed our meal.

We began with calamari a la Paul ($5.99), a platter of rings deep-fried in a spicy batter and served with pepperoncinis, black olives, chopped tomatoes, and slices of toasted French bread. We quickly demolished this appetizer, declaring it was "superb." The vegetarian in the group opted for garlic bread ($3.50) baked with pesto, fresh tomato slices, and mozzarella cheese. It was another hit.

While we studied the menu and sipped our drinks, a light and fragrant semillon blanc from Roche Cellars ($3.99), homemade pink lemonade ($1.50) -- I still wonder how they made it pink -- and soft drinks ($1.10), we nibbled on slices of firm, chewy French bread.

I had already sampled a Peppercorns' salad on a previous visit, perfectly sautéed sea scallops on a bed of field greens with portabello mushrooms, roasted peppers, and goat cheese ($6.99). And I also had an appetizer of lobster ravioli ($6.99) with chunks of lobster in a delicate pasta napped with an understated basil cream sauce.

Understated is a good description of chef Anthony Joseph's style at Peppercorns. A veteran who has headed the kitchens of Arturo's and Tiano's, he has the confidence to let the ingredients speak for themselves. Not that the food is at all plain; he uses herbs skillfully, as in Tuscan chicken ($10.99), where fresh rosemary and sage enhance rather than dominate both the sauce and the light breading of the chicken fillets. More about this delightful dish later.

Our vegetarian opted for the angel hair Ashley ($7.99), an ample serving of the slender pasta tossed with diced tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, olive oil, and parmesan cheese. She declared it quite tasty and her request for a spoon to aid in twirling the long strands of pasta was quickly answered by our waitress. I sampled it and found another example of a light touch (rather than heavy hand) with seasoning and sauce.

I was tempted by pan-fried tournedos au poivre ($15.99) but settled on veal Napoleon ($12.99), an elegant serving of veal scaloppini with wild mushrooms, roasted red peppers, scallions, and roasted cashews in a brandy cream sauce. Once I added a sprinkling of salt, this dish was superb.

The seafood fan chose baked stuffed shrimp ($11.99); five huge shrimp with the almost-sweet taste and firm texture of super-fresh shellfish. The only criticism we had was of the stuffing. It was made with four cheeses, which on this occasion gave it a slightly gummy texture.

Both the veal and shrimp came with a choice of pasta or mashed potatoes; we chose potatoes, they were better than Mom's. A vegetable medley of crunchy, bright green beans, tomatoes, and summer squash was a colorful and very tasty accompaniment.

The aforementioned Tuscan chicken ($10.99) was excellent. Besides the sophisticated seasonings, this dish also featured artichoke hearts, slices of kalamata olives, onions, and garlic over angel hair pasta.

From several dessert choices, we split the ice cream surprise ($ 3.50), a ball of French vanilla, coated in chocolate cookie crumbs, served with chocolate sauce and whipped cream, and chocolate raspberry bash ($3.50), chocolate crumb crust, layers of chocolate and cream cheese topped with tangy raspberries, white chocolate, and whipped cream. Our bill for four, including beverages, desserts, tax, but not the tip, was $72.23.