Grill seeking

The fish is king at the Red Fish Grille

by Margaret LeRoux

Grill seeking
Red Fish Grille (at the El Morocco)
100 Wall Street, Worcester
756-7117
Fri.-Sat 4-11 p.m., Sun. 4-10 p.m., Tues.-Thurs. 4-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

We dined recently at the Red Fish Grille and had some of the best seafood we've ever eaten in Worcester. The restaurant, in what used to be the El Morocco's bar, is spacious and well appointed, with lovely woodwork. Large booths on one side have a hilltop view of the city. Having dinner here at sunset would be a scenic as well as culinary experience.

But, if you happen to dine on a night when the Red Sox, Celtics, or Bruins are playing, you'll find your attention riveted to a huge television screen. It's in the middle of the back wall next to the open kitchen and is one of several TV sets -- the rest smaller -- tuned to a different sporting event. Sports fans must love this, but it's a shame to sacrifice such a promising setting. All the important elements work well, however. Focus your attention on the food, and you won't be disappointed,

We started with roasted oysters ($6.95) from the main menu as an appetizer along with a Caesar salad ($3.95). While we waited, we each sipped a glass of wine -- Kendall Jackson sauvignon blanc ($5.50) and a Queen Adelaide chardonnay ($4.50). The sauvignon blanc was an ideal choice; its crisp flavors complemented the seafood we ate. The salad arrived first -- a generous serving of romaine topped by a creamy version of Caesar dressing and a few, large, garlic-infused croutons. The parmesan cheese was negligible, and there were no anchovies; but we enjoyed the crisp greens. We later speared the salad's large croutons to soak up the juices from the oysters, since we weren't served bread or rolls. The six large oysters were delicious. Served on the half shell with a dusting of parmesan cheese and parsley, they were fresh and flavorful.

The service was prompt, friendly, and well timed; we had but a short interval between courses. I made my selection from the specials menu that featured, besides the fish of the day, a large assortment including: haddock, swordfish, sole, catfish, salmon, mahi mahi, and grouper. There are also bargain priced early-bird specials; order between 4 and 6 p.m. and you can have broiled sole or grilled chicken for $6.95. The night we dined baked scallop casserole and broiled mahi mahi were offered for only $6.95.

There are several beef and chicken items on the menu, but none of the El's signature dishes. My advice: stick with the fish.

I had a hard time choosing between pan-fried catfish with red pepper beurre blanc ($8.95) and broiled grouper with mango salsa ($12.95); I have to admit the mango salsa was the deciding factor. I'm glad I chose the grouper; it's a mild, firm, fish that stood up to the flavorful salsa, a mixture of chopped cucumber, melons, mango, red and green peppers seasoned with cilantro, lemon and lime juice. The effect was refreshing, with crunch from the cucumber and the tiniest bit of sweetness from the mango and melons. Alongside, I was served a few steamed red bliss potatoes and a vegetable mixture of summer squash, zucchini, carrots and broccoli, sautéed al dente in butter. All together, this was a very successful combination.

My companion's choice from the main menu -- broiled seafood platter ($12.95) -- featured several, large shrimp, small bay scallops, lots of calamari rings, and a good- sized haddock fillet. Though the texture and thickness of the fish and shellfish in this entree varied, each of them was perfectly cooked, no small feat. Both of us were impressed that the Red Fish Grille's chef lets the fish be the star of the meal. Sauces complement rather than overpower the seafood here. Both our dishes had a clean, fresh taste -- perhaps because of the broiling -- they were perfect, light, spring meals.

In an interview later, chef Jim Stolberg noted that he's always on the lookout for seafood that's a bit out of the ordinary.

"I love to serve fish like pompano, red snapper, grouper," he said. The Worcester native gained experience cooking Atlantic coast seafood during a stint as a country club chef in Palm Springs, Florida. He returned to his hometown last fall to cook at the Red Fish Grille.

"I've been very pleased at how many people are willing to go out on a limb and try something they usually don't have," Stolberg said, adding that standbys like haddock and swordfish are nevertheless popular.

Perhaps because we felt so virtuous with our broiled seafood entrees, we indulged in dessert, sharing a slice of raspberry mocha torte ($3.95). Desserts are from Gerardo's Bakery and are worth every calorie. Ours was a generous, multilayered portion of white and chocolate cake filled with chocolate frosting and raspberry preserves, topped with mocha flavored buttercream. Our bill came to $60.01, not including tip.