Good Times

Our unofficial officials agree: the Irish Times isn't authentic, it's better

by Margaret LeRoux

Irish Times
244 Main Street
797-9599
Daily 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

I consider my two English friends to be experts on pubs. That is, they are not at all reticent at pointing out how déclassé we Americans are with our ice-cold beer and gooey nachos. They're continually on the prowl for an authentic pub experience this side of the Atlantic and have an impressive list of places that don't quite measure up. So, when I had the opportunity to visit the new Irish Times on the site of the former Main Street Brewery, I thought pub, rather than Irish, and asked my friends to join me.

As we surveyed the fairly crowded bar and booths on the main floor, I was dismayed to hear one of my friends comment, "Doesn't look at all like a real pub. Much too large." As we made our way up the stairs to the dining room on the second floor, all similarity to a "real pub" vanished. "This is lovely," exclaimed one friend as she surveyed the exposed brick walls and woodwork, the fireplace across the room, waxed wood floors, and upholstered chairs.

They didn't find shepherd's pie on the menu, though fish and chips was duly noted. I later learned that the staff forgot to provide us with pub menus. According to chef Jack Watson, both dinner and pub menus are available to dinner customers; and yes, shepherd's pie is a favorite among the regulars. Our friends were impressed that our water glasses included a lemon slice -- another nice touch apparently lacking in English pubs. There were several choices among draft beers; two in our party immediately selected a Sam Adams ($3.25) and a Bodding ($3.50) -- similar to Guinness but not as dark.

Appetizers included many pub standards like potato skins, cheese sticks, and onion rings; we decided to try Buffalo wings ($5.95). We were glad we chose the mild rather than the spicy version; these were pungent wings, cooled by bleu cheese dip and celery sticks. A few moments later the waitress returned with a stack of napkins and packages of towelettes, a thoughtful gesture. Throughout the evening the service was prompt and cheerful. One in our party loves clam chowder, and the Irish Times version ($2.50) didn't disappoint her. Chock full of potato and clam chunks, it had a creamy, smoky flavor; we thought we detected bacon bits.

Our salads arrived: mesclun greens with surprisingly ripe cherry tomatoes, cucumber slices, and grated carrot arranged prettily on glass plates. A basket of crunchy rolls accompanied the salads; they were frozen and reheated, not fresh.

The dinner menu has an assortment of what chef Watson in an interview later described as "upscale pub food." He knows from pub food; Watson came to the Irish Times from the Old Colony House in South Boston.

At the Irish Times there are several chicken, beef, and fish entrées; I spotted a favorite: trout almondine ($11.95) and was very pleased with my selection. A large fillet had been boned and sautéed in a lemon, butter, and garlic sauce, and sprinkled with scallions and toasted almonds. It was moist and delicious. The green beans served alongside were tender and fresh. I chose mashed potatoes over french fries or rice and was relieved that the Irish Times has resisted the trend to add garlic to them. My friend was even more enthusiastic. "These mashed potatoes are divine," she sighed happily, while devouring her sizable portion. Her main course was baby back ribs ($11.95), an enormous rack of them, thick with sauce and "not at all greasy," she said. Nevertheless, she was pleased when the waitress returned with more napkins and towelettes. Cole slaw was also served with the ribs.

One dinner companion chose steak delmonico ($12.95) served just as requested, medium rare. It was a large serving of beef, with a slightly smoky taste from the grill. Adorned with a couple of lightly battered, crisp, fried onion rings and accompanied by a piping hot baked potato and steamed green beans, it was a simple but satisfying meal. The remaining member of our group, the pub purist, ordered fish and chips ($9.95). He wasn't impressed. The fish, though fresh tasting, was too lightly battered, he said, and the pieces were too small -- "almost like fish fingers."

As the evening wore on, things were heating up below. Strains of Irish pop songs and folk tunes accompanied by an electric violin and guitars blasted up the stairway. (There's live music almost every night.) We gave up on conversation and concentrated on dessert instead. Two of us shared a serving of mud pie ($2.25): chocolate ice cream in a chocolate crumb crust, topped with caramel sauce and toasted almonds. It was yummy. My other dining companions were more restrained; one had a scoop of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce ($1.50), resisting the lure of strawberry shortcake; the other opted for coffee ($1). Before we left, our pub experts conceded that Irish Times may not be authentic, but it's a friendly restaurant and the food is good. We're likely to return to try the shepherd's pie. Our bill for four including tax but not tip was $83.95.