A good cut

C.P. Whitney's Chop House is still a downtown treat

by Jim Johnson

C.P. Whitney's Chop House
Crowne Plaza Hotel, 10 Lincoln Square, Worcester
791-1600
Lunch Daily except Sun. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner Sun.-Thurs. 5:30-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 5:30-11 p.m.
Brunch Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Major credit cards
Liquor license
Handicap accessible

I remember the first time I feasted at C.P. Whitney's Chop House at the Crowne Plaza. I immediately heralded it as one of the top five restaurants in Worcester. With a new menu in place, it's certainly holding its own.

The setting is the same, with an air of Manhattan chic. Everything speaks of luxury, from the elegant tables and chairs to the plush carpeting. For added intimacy, dining is split over two levels.

Service is also just as good. In fact, I'd risk putting our server on my list of top five ever, top ten if you factor out hyperbole. He was as enthusiastic, friendly, and knowledgeable as they get. He knew each menu item thoroughly, and rewarded at least one choice we made with a sincere "Awesome." We were a slightly rowdy foursome, and he matched our manners. When we told him, "Great focaccia," he replied breezily, "Same to you." When one of us (okay, when I) took a second trip to the salad bar, he demanded, "Did I say you could go up for more?"

Smart-aleck servers fail if all they offer is flippant comments. Ours kept our courses perfectly paced, maintained sincerity when appropriate, and kept plates and silverware cleared and water glasses filled.

The new menu adds zest, creativity, and an international flair. From Asia, we have Szechuan shrimp skewers and Thai coconut scallop sauté. From France, there are duckling lapparousse, prepared with a spicy herb and Dijon mustard bread-crumb crust, and pan-seared chicken Lyonnaise served with a creamy sauce of caramelized onion, thyme, and sherry. Britain even takes a modified bow with chicken Wellington -- grilled chicken breast topped with duck liver pâté and wild mushrooms and wrapped in pastry crust -- and fish, shrimp, and chips.

Lovers of steaks and chops will be happy to know that much has also stayed the same. For example, as befits a chop house, C.P. Whitney's continues to feature filet mignon, New York sirloin (Certified Angus beef only), top sirloin, and Delmonico steak -- all Certified Angus Beef -- as well as pork filet, rack of lamb, and chicken breast. Each may be prepared with a choice of sauces, such as béarnaise (buttery with hints of lemon and tarragon), moutarde (bourbon, Pommery mustard, and cream), and peppercorn. Each may also be topped with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, or a melange of sautéed portabella mushrooms with onion, roasted garlic, tomatoes, and rosemary.

We started with two appetizers and a six-inch brick-oven pizza. During our brief wait, we nibbled on crisp, doughy focaccia and sipped some 1996 Rodney Strong sauvignon blanc.

The fresh mozzarella roulade ($7.25) was super: several strips of chilled mozzarella stuffed with mild prosciutto and fresh basil, and rolled. The grilled scallops ($7.25) circled a roasted portabella mushroom cap in a pool of bright orange, roasted red-pepper coulis. The scallops and cap were luke-warm and the coulis perhaps overpowering, but we enjoyed the dish nonetheless. The margherita pizza ($5.95) came on a focaccia crust topped with roasted garlic, fresh basil, pesto, mozzarella cheese, and sliced tomatoes.

À la carte, C.P. Whitney's specialty salad bar is $8.25. If you order any entree, it's free. Either way, it's a great deal. Selections include tabouleh, grilled vegetables (including sweet potato -- an unusual and tasty touch), pesto tomato, portabella vinaigrette, and grilled eggplant and a variety of pasta salads.

The Key Largo veal and scallops ($19.95) was enjoyed by one and all. The cutlets had been breaded (probably after being pounded tender and thin) and sautéed with plenty of scallops in a light tomato sauce brought to life with tangy lime and garlic.

The person who ordered the cranberry and apple roast duckling ($15.95) was disappointed. He was justifiably miffed that the boneless duckling was in fact bone-in, and he found the stuffing of dried fruits and the apple and cranberry compote overly sweet. I liked my sampling, though I didn't have the high concentration of fruits.

In fact, I liked the duck more than my own choice, the Szechuan shrimp skewers ($17.95), which, besides being difficult to say five times fast, were overcooked and tough in a sauce that was too salty. It did get points for being served on a skewer made from a rosemary sprig, but it was a pity that the subtle herb flavor didn't come through.

The winning entree, hands down, was the rack of lamb ($26.95). Eight riblets were moist and tender. The coating of herbs added crisp texture to the outside and delicate flavoring to the meat.

Entrees came with a choice of potatoes or rice, and we found the rice a tad soggy and salty but the mashed and baked potatoes perfect.

Desserts included top-notch tiramisu and a Bailey's Cream torte. Exclusive of wine and tip, we spent $30 per person -- not cheap, but a value in every way.