Cyprian's Bistro

A tasty spot in the Boylston woods

by Jim Johnson

Cyprian's Bistro
284 East Temple Street, (off Route 140), Boylston
869-9900, ext. 23
Sun. 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Mon. 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Full bar
Major credit cards
Not handicap accessible

For years, I'm told, Rovezzi's was the Italian restaurant of choice in downtown Worcester. Today, a new generation of Rovezzis is creating a buzz in what might be the best new restaurant -- Cyprian's Bistro -- in Central Massachusetts' blossoming dining scene.

A driving rain made the sight of Cyprian Keyes Country Club all the more appealing. The main building, built manor-house style, glowed brightly through Boylston's back woods. More than 200 years ago, American patriot Cyprian Keyes made these woods and fields his home. The land passed through several generations and to other families, and the 500-acre property was ultimately donated to the Archdiocese of Worcester. The Archdiocese recently sold about 230 acres to a private developer, who has built a first-class golf course and clubhouse.

The clubhouse has a manor-house feel with complementary airs of authenticity and modernity. Off one banquet room lies a restored room from the original Keyes mansion, all that could be salvaged from the derelict property. The developer, it should be noted, has also preserved a good portion of the land (near the third hole) as a wildlife refuge.

Thus we entered the restaurant with every good feeling. The feelings only got better.

We'd made reservations for eight o'clock and were seated as soon as we arrived. A candle flickered in a tiny metal cage on our table, glowing gently next to freshly cut flowers. The walls held sconces backed by mirrors cut in the shape of eight-pointed stars. Similar designs appeared in the intricate carpeting and etched against the back-lit bar counter.

The bistro holds just 15 to 20 tables, and service is both pampered and appropriately familiar. One server is responsible for clearing plates and keeping water glasses filled. She did both with finesse and minimal intrusion. Each primary server (dressed in black pants, tuxedo shirt, and tie) also served as back-up for the others, and our courses arrived with perfect pacing. One back-up saw the appetizers our server had just placed and said, "Hey, you two picked the good stuff!" It's hard to imagine bad stuff. We passed on two appetizers -- tortellini Alfredo and grilled portabello mushroom -- and opted for bruschetta ($6) and chilled shrimp ($9). Both surpassed expectations.

The shrimp, billed as "classic shrimp cocktail," was much more. A half-dozen plump shrimp were fanned around the plate, alternating with leaves of silky endive. In the center of the plate, a pile of shaved radicchio was topped with a zingy wasabi-spiced sauce and ringed with slivers of lemon.

The bruschetta consisted of dense, fresh bread grilled and topped with fresh basil, roma tomatoes, and lots of garlic, and extra-virgin olive oil. We also chose glasses of Corbett Canyon Chardonnay from a limited but adventurous wine list. Glasses range from $4.25 to $6.95, bottles from $15 to $45.

With just nine entrees on the menu, it's obvious that the Rovezzis prefer to concentrate on the quality of their entrees rather than the number. With menus that change frequently, variety comes with return visits. We were not lacking for choices, however. If anything, the problem was which choice to make.

Choices we didn't make include lamb á la menthe, an herb- and nut-encrusted rack of lamb accompanied by crisped fennel and celery chips and finished with spearmint demiglace; red snapper Mediterraneo sautéed with jumbo shrimp and Mediterranean herbs and finished with white wine and sambucca butter; and pollo marsala al forno, boneless chicken breast stuffed with roasted shiitake, portabello, and button mushrooms and finished with roasted garlic marsala butter.

We did choose veal Oscar ($22) and grilled swordfish ($17) and couldn't have been more delighted. The veal was the size of a man's fist, yet tender and moist due to careful pan-searing. Instead of the traditional crabmeat accompaniment, this preparation featured South American lobster tails, each the size of a thumb and as sweet and tender as could be. I always worry when I see "l'orange" in a description, fearing an overly sweet sauce. No worries here; the hollandaise sauce had a hint of orange that seemed to draw out flavors rather than mask them.

My swordfish was equally tender and equally moist and a wonderful rainbow of flavors. The steak had been basted in ginger and tamari and then finished with a fresh cilantro and sesame salsa. The grilling left hatch-marks that were crisscrossed with baby asparagus spears. Served atop a bed of shaved radicchio, the fish was decorated with a confetti of carrots, cabbage, and parsley.

For dessert, we savored superb tiramisu and a lemon berry tart with buttery crust, lemon cream, and a veneer of puréed berries. Strawberries, blueberries, and swirls of berry sauce and white cream decorated the plate.

Plan on spending $25 to $35 per person and feeling it's worth every penny.