Sanchioni's

Still crazy after all these years

by Jim Johnson

Sanchioni's Italian Restaurant, 6 North Main St., Uxbridge
278-0005
Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.
Sat. 4-10:30 p.m.
Sunday 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap not accessible

The last time I ventured into Uxbridge Inn's basement, it was Pub Max. When I returned recently with a friend, the dining area had become Sanchioni's Italian Restaurant, while Pub Max remained as the adjacent bar area. The setting is still as quirky and weird (in a nice way) as ever.

When I reviewed Pub Max a year ago, I described it as a "Dante-meets-Dali dungeon deli . . . fraught with visual hyperbole." Little has changed. Above ground, the 1882 Uxbridge Inn maintains a stately presence on the National Register of Historic Places. But downstairs, the setting proudly crosses the line to kitsch and camp. Neon wall lights continue to pierce the darkness. A giant bronze eagle watches over flagstone floors. In the dining area, brick walls and the bar border a checkerboard floor. Take the bleakness of Batman and the emotional edge of Alien, and you'll come close to what we experienced.

Or maybe it was just my medication finally kicking in.

In its Pub Max incarnation, Brazilian chef Luis Carlos had built an eclectic menu of New England, Mexican, Italian, and Brazilian cuisine. As Sanchioni's, the menu now features basic seafood and Italian dishes. Luckily, a friend and I found out recently, they do a pretty good job of it, with good service and low prices tossed in for good measure.

When we hit the bottom of the stairs, a group at the bar fell silent and pivoted on stools to look at us. In another setting, I would have expected "Norm!" Here, I awaited "Igor!" Instead, a friendly server greeted us and ushered us to a comfortable booth.

Sinatra sang, Chianti bottles decorated the walls, and our table was protected by checkered vinyl. For appetizers, we had a choice of mozzarella sticks, French fries, chicken fingers, fried calamari, and similar fare. We chose an antipasto ($4.95), stuffed clams Sanchioni ($5.95), and baked stuffed mushrooms ($3.95).

Pardon the interruption, but here's an update for readers of last week's column, which described my fearful flight from Squire White's. Thus far, I've received no more threats of bodily harm. But I regret to report that not enough of you have gone into the restaurant (which is really quite good and quite cheap) and uttered the two magic words "Worcester" and "Phoenix" to "The Boss." If you saw Young Frankenstein, think "Blucher" and the horses, and you'll get an idea of the likely reaction.

Anyhow, the antipasto appeared huge but on closer inspection turned out to be mounds of iceberg lettuce with a veneer of tomatoes, red onions, ham, salami, peppers, and cheese. Dressing came on the side. It was a passable salad but lacked the panache of a true antipasto.

The stuffed clams, served in two large scallop shells, were excellent. The crispy-crusted bread stuffing was moist inside with a generous portion of clams, carrots, onions, and enough cayenne to add kick.

Likewise, the mushroom caps were fresh and moist, the stuffing more cracker-crumb than bread. Cheese bubbled over the sides.

Pasta makes up about a third of the menu. On the low end, you have your choice of spaghetti, penne, or linguini with meat sauce ($5.95), sausages ($6.95), clams and scallops in red or white sauce ($9.95).

Sorry. Another interruption: Why does everyone call it white sauce? It's not white; it's clear.

Anyhow, ravioli comes six ways: parmigiana, plain sauce, meat sauce, with meatballs, with sausages, and ala Sanchioni ($6.95 to $7.95). Lasagna comes standard ($7.95) or vegetarian ($8.95).

Another interruption: Does meat cost less than vegetables, or does the preparation make the vegetarian lasagna the more expensive of the two?

Then there's the usual mix of chicken, veal, and eggplant, plus "Paul's Famous Half Roasted Chicken," "Paul's Favorite Seasoned Large T-Bone Steak," and a bunch of shrimp, scrod, and scallop dishes.

I chose the Roman platter ($8.95), a mix of sweet sausage, dense meatballs, some of Paul's chicken, and a large portion of lasagna. Except for the chicken, which tasted pre-cooked and a tad dry but by no means disappointing, the dish tasted homemade. The lasagna was especially dense with layers of parmesan and ricotta, firm pasta, and a rich red sauce.

My friend was equally pleased with the ravioli ala Sanchioni: four firm, monstrous pieces stuffed with ricotta and drenched in a flavorful brown sauce studded with green peas. Au gratin-like potatoes came on the side and were firm and peppery.

For dessert, we split a superb and freshly filled cannoli.

You can easily get by for under $10 a person, but plan on $12 to $14. If you're on a budget, try the early-bird specials Monday through Thursday afternoons from 4 to 6 p.m. For $6.95, you get your choice of lasagna, roast chicken, eggplant parm, chicken parm, fish and chips, or baked scrod. Sunday dinner features all-you-can-eat Italian roast chicken for $6.95. And weekdays there's an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.