Archie's

Veronica would approve

by Jim Johnson

Archie's Mill Town Tavern
306 Main Street, East Douglas
476-1277
Daily 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

During its years in Pawtucket, Archie's Tavern became famous for its "caveman cut" of prime rib. I lived nearby for several years, and friends spoke in barely credible terms about the portion of meat. When I heard that Archie's had moved to East Douglas recently as Archie's Mill Town Tavern, I set out with two friends to find the truth. By evening's end, I learned that the descriptions I'd heard were gross understatements.

East Douglas isn't a huge metropolis like Douglas, and we found the restaurant right away. I was surprised to find that Archie's had taken the place of the Axe Mill Tavern, which had offered one of the more exotic menus in the area, with choices like alligator and kangaroo.

The setting looked identical, with the exception of several Archie's testimonials hanging on the wall. East Douglas is an old mill village, and the restaurant fits right in with simple, rustic elegance. With a bar set off from the restaurant, people can sit in casual comfort with soft lights suspended over each booth.

As we nibbled on complimentary marinated mushrooms, our server recited our specials in detail, from memory, and in a conversational tone. We decided immediately that we'd like her. She didn't let us down. She knew when to check in, when to stay away, and when to joke. She also knew every item on the menu in detail and wasn't shy to share her views.

For example, one dining companion couldn't decide which chicken dish to order. She provided mouth-watering descriptions of the chicken marsala and chicken parmigiana but said the stuffed chicken breast was "like mom's. You'll love it." The stuffed chicken won out. However, she came back several minutes later and suggested that he change his order. "People are really commenting on the chicken marsala tonight," she said. "The stuffed chicken breast is good, too, but I really think you'd be better off tonight with the marsala."

My friend switched immediately.

When she saw us having trouble picking appetizers, our server fetched a bar menu, which featured the Tavern Pleaser ($8.95), a tasty collection of fried mozzarella sticks (crisp but gooey), potato skins (meaty potato halves layered with cheese and bacon), buffalo fingers (tender but not spicy enough), and stuffed mushrooms (fresh and dense). We also ordered fried calamari ($6.95), which came with bits of pungent black olives and spicy peppers.

Especially in contrast to the Axe Mill, the menu at Archie's isn't extensive or especially imaginative. However, the quantity and quality of the portions more than compensate. There's a handful of pasta dishes like linguine with sausage and meatballs ($7.95), penne with chicken and broccoli ($7.95), and baked manicotti ($6.50). For seafood, there are baked stuffed shrimp ($12.95), broiled scallops ($10.50), and baked stuffed lobster with shrimp and scallops (market price). Veal choices include parmigiana ($9.95), marsala ($10.95), and à la Archie ($11.25), the last with mushrooms, peppers, onions, garlic, and wine.

But it's the beef category that excites the masses, and I'm not talking the New York sirloin ($13.95) or the sirloin à la mama ($14.95), despite its enticing mushrooms, roasted peppers, olives, garlic, and olive oil. What brings folks in and back is the prime rib: the queen cut for $10.95, the king cut for $13.95, and the Neanderthal caveman cut for $18.95.

You know we had to order it, and we did. The tray bent under the weight as our server carried it to the table. As she placed it in front of us, we could barely speak. It was at least four inches thick and covered almost the entire plate. Juices oozed.

We asked her how much it weighed.

"Forty ounces," she answered.

That's two-and-a-half pounds, the equivalent of 10 quarter-pounders. That's also 10 four-ounce portions, what the American Heart Association advises as a daily maximum. Even subtract some ounces for the two ribs, and you're still talking a lot of beef.

After the initial shock wore off, we cut in to find out how the prime rib actually tasted. Despite the thickness, it was cooked to almost precise medium doneness throughout and was both tender and flavorful. Even the baked potato (hardly touched) was perfect.

As our server promised, the chicken marsala ($8.25) was delightful. Pounded thin, the pieces were lightly pan fried and served perfectly tender with sliced mushrooms in a delicate marsala wine sauce.

A special, cheese ravioli ($5.50) sautéed in garlic and olive oil, was less successful, the flavor weak and the pasta slightly overcooked.

Our tasty desserts, as in many American restaurants, came from B.J.'s.

Dinner for three came to $64.95, but I'm sure you could spend half that much if you don't want leftovers to last for three days (even less if you choose from the pub menu's burgers and sandwiches).

A pre-autumn note: It's an easy ride down Route 146 to 16 West, but, if the leaves are turning, take the back roads through the hills and farmland of West Millbury, Sutton, and Manchaug. I bike through the area, and the foliage is well worth a few extra-minutes' drive.