Family fare

Everyone pitches in at Nick's Mediterranean

by Jim Johnson

617 Lincoln Street, Worcester
854-1400
Mon.-Sat.
11-12:30 a.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

Before I discuss my enjoyable visits to Nick's Mediterranean, I'd like to share a new menu item apparently on the menu at Angela's. According to a recent T&G ad, the beloved ristorante now serves "Fried Doe." And I love venison in springtime. Or is that Paris?

Also, I'd like to say hello to my Uncle Arnold and Aunt BeeDee. They never miss a column, and, even if they did, they'd still be two of the greatest folks around. They moved to Worcester recently, and I've been promising for months to take them out on a review. Between my schedule and their inability to get out as much as they'd like, we haven't made it to dinner yet. I'm just glad they can dine vicariously through these weekly columns. And, Uncle Arnold, please tell my mom that there's nothing wrong with my being 37 and single. Okay, 43 and single.

Indeed, family is what life's all about, and, in this case, serves as a convenient segue to the actual review. Although I'm usually able to keep my identity under wraps, I blew my cover at Nick's. The meal was over and paid for, however, so I wasn't really worried about presenting a fair view of what had been a perfectly fine dining experience. That changed when Nick's mom walked over, touched my cheek, hugged me, and said, "I hope you say nice things about my restaurant. Bless you. Bless you!"

Talk about pressure!

And then Nick himself lashed out at other area reviewers and some of their comments about the restaurant. One writer called the place sterile. I'd call it austere. Another criticized a certain dish.

"Hey, I saw her plate when it came back. She finished everything," he told me. "I don't know what she was complaining about."

Well, Nick, neither do I. But then again, mama's reading this, and I don't want my blessing revoked.

All kidding aside (for now), Alexandria Stratis and her son Nick have nothing to fear from this review. Frankly, I like a place where the whole family pitches in. When head chef Alex takes time off, dad pitches in. Sis greets customers. And mama blesses them.

The family's Greek heritage comes through loud and clear on the menu. Lemon Chicken Al Greek ($10.95) is pan fried with garlic, spinach, and artichokes. Steak Athena ($12.95) is marinated and grilled with roasted peppers, onions, and garlic. Souvlaki comes two ways -- lamb ($12.95) and swordfish. Even the pizzas are thin-crusted in the Greek style. After all, Nick's dad helped put Greek-style pizza on the Worcester map.

But Nick's takes a broad view of the Mediterranean, blending in French, Italian, and Spanish influences. Somehow, Austria migrated south to the sea, since Tenderloin Viennese ($14.95) -- skillet-fried beef medallions topped with a cheese demi-glace -- also made it to the menu. And, for those with more local tastes, steak and seafood make strong appearances, like Baked Fisherman's Feast ($13.95) and New York Strip Steak ($11.95).

A friend joined me for my first visit, and we found our first dish -- Shrimp Corfu ($5.95) -- an absolute delight. Garlic cloves, onions, and tasty, firm, fresh shrimp had been diced into large chunks, marinated in extra-virgin olive oil, and simmered with feta cheese and red chili pepper. While the cheese lent smooth sensuousness, the pepper punctuated each bite with a flash of fire. The serving dish was rimmed with bread, which disappeared as we mopped up the last garlicky morsels.

Mussels Janina ($4.95) came next, with a basic broth brought alive by onions, garlic, tomatoes, lemon, and bay leaves. I'd ordered Egg Lemon Soup ($2.25) and took a big sip. Unfortunately, it was a cup of buttered broth that had come on the side. My soup came a few moments later and was fine (but not as good as that broth!).

For entrees, we ordered Chicken Portobello ($10.95) and Paithakia Tis Skaras ($12.95), also known as lamb chops. Both were great.

The tender chicken breast was coated with herbs and gently pan fried. Outside, the herbs formed a flavorful crust. Inside, the meat was moist and flavorful. A slice of meaty portobello mushroom garnished the top. A gravy rich with Monte Pulciano wine added extra flair.

The lamb chops had a full, garlicky taste with just the right balance of herbs. Each of the three chops was tender and meaty.

The dishes came with skewed vegetables, a fresh and flavorful mix of eggplants, zucchinis, and carrots.

For dessert, I enjoyed what Nick called his father's recipe but what his mother claimed as her own -- a sweet and creamy rice pudding ($2.95) dusted with cinnamon. The flavors were balanced perfectly, and the rice was still firm. My friend's baklava was like one of my relatives (not my aunt or uncle): flaky and rich. Unlike my relatives (as far as I know), the pastry was decadently drenched in honey and butter.

On my second visit, I enjoyed Salmon En Salsa Verde ($12.95) more than the first two entrees. A generous portion of salmon was pan fried with garlic, onions, parsley, mussels, and scallops with a few splashes of white wine added for interest.

Service was attentive and cordial bordering on familiar, which seemed absolutely right for the setting.

Plan on spending $15 to $20 per person.