On Solomon Pond

The Grille offers tasty pub fare and lakeside dining

by Jim Johnson

35 Solomon Pond Road
Northborough 393-2681
Open Sun.-Wed. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap accessible

It was a dark and stormy night. Okay, it was just drizzling a bit, but it was enough to keep us off the Grille's scenic deck overlooking Solomon Pond.

No matter. Despite the troublesome clouds, the sunset glowed warmly through sliding glass doors. Nearby tables commanded views of the peaceful pond and the trees beyond. The interior design carried the woodsy motif even further, as white-washed planking, green trim, and painted trellises set off booths and tables. The Grille also has a separate pub area, where I'd nibbled on fresh popcorn while awaiting my dining companion.

Perhaps reflecting the tastes of pub patrons and of the many families we saw, the appetizers were standard pub fare: baked nachos, potato skins, mozzarella sticks, Buffalo fingers, and the like, as well as a Grille combo sampler. We chose stuffed clams ($3.95) and the bloomin' onion ($4.95).

The clams, although light on clams in the "tender clam stuffing," were tasty enough. The moist bread stuffing had plenty of pepper bits and a hint of cheese. The gargantuan bloomin' onion, my guest pointed out accurately, was "awesome." It was also sweet and tender, with a thick, eggy batter coating each layer and slice. An accompanying horseradish sauce helped cut through the requisite oil, although at least one gall bladder cried out for mercy.

As we munched, our friendly server alerted us that the kitchen was running a bit slow. "I just wanted to let you know," she said. Although we were quite content with the pacing, we enjoyed similar consideration and attentiveness throughout the evening.

If your appetite's light, you can choose from a variety of soups, salads, and sandwiches. Salads include chicken Caesar ($7.25) and sirloin salad ($7.95) with steak tips. Sandwiches include lobster rolls (market price), French dip roast beef ($6.95), and turkey ($6.95) with stuffing, gravy, and cranberry sauce to a stylish variety of half-pound burgers ($5.95).

The Grille's success (demonstrated by the numbers of repeat customers) results in great part from the kitchen's restraint. Instead of attempting an overly ambitious menu, the Grille restricts its entrees to what it can do well and offers them at a reasonable price.

Restraint doesn't translate into bland or boring options, however. Beef specialties include New York sirloin, filet mignon, and sirloin tips -- the latter grilled with onions and mushrooms. Roast prime rib served with a choice of au jus, teriyaki, Jack Daniel's glaze au jus, bernaise, or horseradish sauces ranges from the $10.95 house cut to the $24.95 colossal cut.

"Pastabilities" include fettucini Alfredo with a choice of chicken or shrimp; seafood sauté with shrimp, scallops, and lobster served either fra diavalo with spicy marinara or Alfredo; and broccoli fromaggio with broccoli flowerets, fresh tomatoes, basil, black olives, and ricotta and romano cheeses.

Chicken and veal come in three styles: marsala (with mushrooms and marsala wine), parmesan, and Oscar (in white wine sauce and topped with asparagus spears, lobster, and bernaise sauce).

Seafood offers the broadest variety, with haddock, shrimp, and scallops served fried, baked, or broiled; shrimp served scampi or stuffed; salmon served baked or broiled and topped with dill sauce; and fish and chips. If you prefer, choose from three combination platters.

My guest ordered a special, grilled swordfish ($11.95) tossed in cream sauce over linguine.

Served in bite-sized chunks, the swordfish was fresh, tender, and tasty, coated with flavorful cream sauce. The pasta was cooked just right.

I ordered the broiled seafood sampler ($14.95), with absolutely tender sea scallops, fresh haddock, sweet lobster, and firm shrimp. I'd asked for reduced butter (not that it mattered much after that bloomin' onion), and the kitchen complied by substituting broth to add moisture and to enhance the flavor. Lightly seasoned bread crumbs were sprinkled on top. My only complaint: surprisingly little food for the price, which was not the case with any other orders that passed our table.

For dessert, we enjoyed an apple crisp ($2.95) that tasted like mom's best, with firm apples, minimal added sweeteners, a buttery oatmeal crust sprinkled with a touch of cinnamon and sugar, and vanilla ice cream pooling across the top. The strawberry shortcake was just as successful, with strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream served over flaky buttermilk biscuits. A third option was mud slide pie ($3.50) that the menu temptingly describes as "a chocolate cookie crust filled with coffee ice cream, sealed in fudge and topped with ice cream, a drizzle of Irish Cream, and a sprinkle of cocoa."

Dinner came to about $20 apiece, excluding beverage and tip, and we left well satisfied with the food and service as well as with the tranquil setting. If you enjoy lakeside dining (and agree with me that East Side Mario's barely qualifies as dining), take the short trip to Northborough. It's worth it.