Designer food

It's worth reminding yourself why Arturo's is always on the "A" list

Arturo's Ristorante
411 Chandler Street, Worcester 755-5640
Ristorante Sun. 1-10 p.m., Mon.-Fri. 5-9 p.m., Sat. 5-10 p.m.
Pizzeria Sun. 1-10 p.m., Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.
Liquor license
Major credit cards
Handicap Accessible

by Jim Johnson

When friends ask me where I dine when I'm not reviewing, Arturo's always makes the "A" list. Sometimes I savor brick-oven pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches at the Pizzeria at Arturo's -- especially if I'm feeling creative. Few restaurants offer the variety of toppings: chicken, basil, roasted garlic, pesto, spinach, goat cheese, for starters. And the quality is unequalled: the dough baked perfectly: crisp at the edges, soft in the middle, and coated with rich, fresh tomato sauce.

The sandwiches are equally exciting, like roasted eggplant with fresh tomato and mozzarella cheese on toasted French bread or homemade focaccia filled with smoked turkey, lettuce, tomatoes, and onions.

Tempting as the Pizzeria is, I prefer the main dining room for its understated elegance and unrivaled Continental service. And the Northern Italian cuisine is glorious, a celebration for all senses.

With two friends in tow, I returned to Arturo's Ristorante recently. It had been long enough (too long) since my last visit to feel a sense of excitement and newness: the designer desserts in the showcase, the skylights and cathedral ceiling lend airy brightness, trees and canvas room dividers add intimacy on a quiet evening.

We were welcomed and guided to our table past the display of fresh, colorful antipasto items. Light sparkled from oil lamps throughout the room.

Although we weren't in the mood for wine, we did view the list, which offers some the region's more extensive, varied, and reasonably priced choices.

As we studied the menu, we nibbled on Italian bread and focaccia that we dipped into herbed olive oil. We'd arrived early and were thus able to choose from both the main menu and from Arturo's early-evening specials (available Monday to Saturday from 5 to 6:30 p.m. for $6.95 to $9.95).

Appetizers were an easy decision. The antipasto misto ($7.50) is always a first choice for me, and we unanimously chose the lobster ravioli ($7.25) and the mashed- potato pizza ($6.95).

Most antipasti contain iceberg, bland cheese, salami, and the like. At Arturo's, the platter is covered with oven-roasted vegetables like garlicky roasted peppers, moist mushrooms, spinach with chunks of garlic, and summer squash in a slightly sweet marinade. In fact, each vegetable carries a different marinade. Cheeses are top-quality, like the slightly salty mozzarella served with roasted tomato slices. Add some thin-sliced prosciutto and rice-filled frittata, and this dish has more personality and variety than most dinners.

The ravioli were three huge, firm pasta shells filled with sweet lobster meat. A wonderful presentation, the plate was decorated with chives and shrimp and drizzled with a reduction of shrimp stock with a hint of hot pepper.

The thin-crust pizza was cooked to just the right crispness, topped with a layer of mashed red-bliss potatoes, caramelized onions, and a mozzarella/Gorgonzola mix, and flavored with hints of rosemary.

Entrées were equally divine.

One guest chose an early-evening special, penne pasta with broccoli and chicken ($9.50). The penne were al dente, the broccoli firm, the chicken tender -- a fairly common dish prepared to perfection.

My other guest selected one of Arturo's three veal dishes, the trifolate ($15.95). Although lean, the veal was tender and flavorful, an excellent cut dipped in egg and sautéed with pungent porcini mushrooms, white mushrooms, plenty of garlic, and parsley. Fresh vegetables and wafer-like potato chips completed the plate.

I chose the risotto of the day ($11.95), on this day served with chunks of tender veal, sweet red peppers, and caramelized onions. It was truly the largest portion of risotto I'd ever seen. The dense arborio rice had absorbed a rich brown sauce that tasted of cheese, garlic, and rosemary. I enjoyed it just as much for my next dinner.

Desserts were decadent as expected: strawberry rhubarb pie ($3.75), white- chocolate gelato with chocolate chunks ($3.95), and black and white mousse cake ($4.50), served with coffee ($1.35) and cappuccino ($2.75).

Service balanced attention and privacy perfectly.

Expect to spend about $20 to $30 per person without beverage, less if you take advantage of the early-evening specials.