Shorah's Ristorante

Survival of the finest; Italian cuisine that should draw the crowds

27 Foster Street, Worcester 797-0007
Mon. 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Sun. 4 p.m. -8 p.m.
Major credit cards
Liquor license
Handicap Accessible

by Jim Johnson

Shorah's continues to be a great value with consistently fine food, an upscale but casual setting, and friendly service. Now that I have that out of the way (with more to follow), I'd like to step on my soapbox.

On Sunday, I stopped at the Dunkin Donuts at the northernmost end of Route 146. A poster out front announced a special: an egg and cheese sandwich for 97 cents with the purchase off a coffee with "meat extra." When I asked how much extra for a slice of ham, I was told by the counter person that the special didn't cover meat; I'd have to pay the normal $2.18 plus the cost of the coffee. Since meat only costs about 30 cents more without the special, this didn't seem right. I tried to reason with her but received only stonewalling and condescension in return (followed by mocking sarcasm when she explained the situation to her co-workers back by the microwave). When I asked to speak with a manager, I was told to call back Monday.

With some residual petulance, I view this experience as yet another danger sign of the continued economic decline of America. In a service economy, service is disappearing. It may be "time to make the doughnuts" but start with time to train your employees the facts of service life.

A question from atop the soapbox: Why do so few restaurants survive in downtown Worcester? Stendhal's closure was perhaps inevitable, with prices that the local market couldn't support. But then Café Bergamos closed in the space once occupied by Milano's. Although shortlived, it was a wonderful successor to Stendhal's with many of the same dishes at less than half the price. Although sister restaurants outside downtown succeed, Thai Orchid has closed its doors. And, most recently, the Main Street Brew Pub breathed (and brewed) its expected last.

In my hometown of Providence, restaurants thrive amid the packed houses six days a week at Trinity Rep and sold-out runs of Miss Saigon and Phantom at the Providence Performing Arts Center. Nearby restaurants do a strong and consistent business.

When the Ad Club of Greater Worcester invited Providence Mayor Vincent "Buddy" Cianci Jr. to speak on his city's renaissance at a recent meeting, local officials were invited to attend. None showed. When the story of Worcester's ultimate decline is written, apathy, self-interest, and petty bickering will be the prevailing themes.

Which brings me, with significant detouring, to Shorah's, a superb dining spot that is packed on Centrum nights but nearly empty on others. Luckily, the downtown workforce supports the restaurant at lunch.

As I said two years ago, "the food's great, the portions towering, the service cordial, the setting comfortable, and the prices low." Shorah's is warm and classy, from the decorative floor tiles to the star-shaped recessed ceiling lights. Prices and menu choices have changed little.

Mushrooms stuffed with lobster meat ($6.95) were fresh and moist. In addition to spinach, tarragon, and mozzarella cheese, the filling had hints of nutmeg -- almost like pumpkin pie. And the lobster chunks were plentiful.

The Focaccia Casa ($4.95 but in plainer form once free) was a tasty crisp pizza shell and topped with olive oil, lots of chopped garlic, and a variety of cheeses.

I've always found the veal at Shorah's tender and tasty, and the Scallopini of Veal Parmigiano ($13.95) was no exception. The thin slices of veal were quickly charred and topped with a fresh, full-bodied marinara and mound of gooey mozzarella atop delicate angel-hair pasta. My dining companion's Pasta Primavera ($9.95) was full of fresh veggies (not as great a variety as she would have liked) mixed in a garlic and oil sauce over firm penne.

Other items to recommend include King Seafood Alfredo, Salmon Grand Manier, Chicken Cacciatore, Filet Mignon au Poivre (all in the $13 to $16 range) and a variety of create-your-own pizzas and calzones ($5 to $10).

Desserts change regularly, and we fully enjoyed Apple Caramel Pie and White Chocolate Cheesecake (with a perfect balance of sweetness and cheese).

Since Centrum nights keep the place hopping, why not make a special trip on an otherwise slow night and enjoy the more relaxed setting? Expect to pay about $20 per person for dinner, perhaps half that for lunch.