Uncommon outlet

Applebee's continues with good service and decent meals

Applebee's Neighborhood Grill and Bar
100 Front Street, (within mall) Worcester 831-9911
Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-midnight
Major credit cards
Full bar
Handicap Accessible

by Jim Johnson

When I'm especially hungry at the Fashion Outlet and want a change from the food court, I treat myself to Applebee's. Even when it's crowded, and I don't choose to eat at the bar, I can put in my name and walk outside to the tourism kiosk. But the wait is seldom long, and it's a great chance to read, for example, that they'll be carting out Torvill and Dean for "Discover Stars on Ice" (an apt title, perhaps, for some of the aging "stars") on February 28.

The restaurant's full name is Applebee's Neighborhood Grill and Bar. Despite its sharp growth rate, the chain somehow maintains that neighborhood feeling. Each location is different, the decor celebrating local heroes (Bob Cousy being the dominant one here). Putting "grill" before "bar" is no accident, either. Although Applebee's is part sports bar, it's more an upscale pub: casual and comfortable with large portions of tasty food served by an enthusiastic wait staff. And no entrée tops ten bucks.

Five or six years ago, I visited my first Applebee's in Warwick, Rhode Island and dined with the New England franchise holder, Skip Sack. Despite overseeing a growing empire of restaurants, he seemed to know every worker by name. When they passed, they smiled broadly and called him by his first name. He seemed to instill a sense of fun and interest as well as a strong service orientation. Their contagious enthusiasm spread readily to the customers.

Although Sack reportedly has decreased his share in the company and his time at the restaurants, the same atmosphere reigns today. On every visit, I've found servers to be friendly, sincere, upbeat, attentive, perfectly paced, and fully informed. A few days ago, two women sat next to me at the bar. I'd just arrived, but they had apparently had some problems with their meal. One pointed at her steak (which looked fine to me) and called it "raw and disgusting." The server, one of the bartenders, immediately told them that the meal was free. He then handed them a gift certificate good for $5 off their next meal.

"We want you to leave here smiling," he said. "And we want you to come back to give us another chance." They did leave smiling -- as well as surprised and grateful -- and promised to return.

Many restaurants could learn a great deal from the empowerment that Applebee's apparently affords its employees.

I've enjoyed a number of dishes there. When I've felt especially fat-conscious, I've picked from their "Low-Fat & Fabulous" selections. The Low-Fat Veggie Quesadilla ($4.79) -- fine as an entrée but great to split as an appetizer -- consists of two wheat tortillas stuffed with steamed fresh broccoli, carrots, peppers, and mushrooms as well as gooey non-fat cheese. Non-fat sour cream and zippy salsa come on the side.

I've also tried the Low-Fat Garlic Chicken Pasta ($6.99). It's every bit as rich as the real thing, though admittedly not as full-bodied as the Chicken & Broccoli Pasta Alfredo ($7.79) or the Grilled Salmon & Alfredo Pasta ($8.99).

Applebee's appetizer "Munchies" are generally straight-forward items such as Buffalo wings, nachos, and mozzarella sticks. My favorite, however, is the Veggie Patch Pizza ($4.99). A wafer-thin crust is crisp on the bottom and covered with cubed tomatoes, spinach, mushrooms, herbs, and gooey cheese (likely not low-fat except on request).

"Neighborhood Specialties" include a variety of steaks and fajitas plus two of my favorites. The Sizzling Stir-Fry Chicken ($7.99) is superb, with lots of thick noodles holding the flavor of the light, somewhat sweet stir-fry sauce. The chicken is marinated and tender, the vegetables fresh and plentiful. The Riblet Platter ($8.99) contains row after row of rib tips slow roasted and basted with a full-bodied sauce.

"Just Right Bites" contains lighter or smaller entrées including Jambalaya Pasta ($7.99) and fish and chips ($6.59). There's also a variety of sandwiches including a tasty Chicken Fajita Rollup ($6.49).

I've been tempted by desserts like strawberry cheesecake and apple cobbler but stayed with the equally tasty "Low-Fat and Fabulous Brownie Sundae" ($3.29), which defies its description.

Two can eat well for $15 to $22, excluding tip and a wide variety of beverages.