Beyond pub fare

PJ's Bar & Grill

by Margaret LeRoux

185 West Boylston St. West Boylston (508) 835-2224 Hours Daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Full bar Major credit cards Handicapp accessible

A friend suggested I try PJ's Bar & Grill in West Boylston for food you wouldn't expect to find in a pub. That was enough to pique my curiosity, so soon afterwards my favorite dining companion and I stopped in for dinner. PJ's is housed in the former Black Orchid on West Boylston Street, handy for fans of the discount movies at the cinema a few blocks away. The décor is upscale pub with fake Tiffany glass shaded lights above the wooden booths. Our young waitress was cheerful, competent, and proved her mettle with outstanding service.

Don't expect fine wines on PJ's list, though the selection of beer on tap includes both Wachusett ale and Guinness; we chose the former ($4). Soon after our drink order was taken our waitress reappeared with a complimentary basket of focaccia and a little bowl of chopped olives to spread on it. This was an unexpected and tasty treat. Now, if only the focaccia had an authentic texture instead of its hamburger bun consistency, this would have been a perfect appetizer. Other appetizer choices are pretty much what you'd get in any pub: Buffalo tenders ($6.50); nachos, mozzarella sticks, ribs, and fried calamari (all $5.95); shrimp cocktail, beer battered coconut shrimp and crab cakes ($6.95).

This visit we decided to share a salad whose description put us in mind of much classier eating establishments. Salad greens, Granny Smith apples, toasted walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese tossed with raspberry walnut vinaigrette ($6.95). This salad came to close to being a knockout. The greens were fresh, crispy and varied, none of the pallid chopped iceberg lettuce you find in so many pubs. The walnuts were indeed toasted, and lightly sugared; there was plenty of cheese and the thinly sliced tart apples were a perfect counterpoint. Only the amount of dressing (way too much) detracted from this dish. I'd order it again in a minute, but would be careful to ask that the dressing be served on the side. Another tempting-sounding salad is grilled chicken and portobello mushrooms ($7.95).

On to main courses, where my friend's assessment proved accurate. When was the last time you saw pan seared, garlic crusted rainbow trout ($12.95) on a pub menu? It's served with sun dried tomatoes, fresh basil, artichoke hearts and kalamata olives in a white wine butter sauce. I was very tempted, and later very sorry that hadn't been my first choice. Instead I was lured by another unexpected find: veal Michele ($12.95), described as a sautéed cutlet with shallots, spinach, wild mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and toasted pine nuts in a brandy cream sauce. This made a beautiful presentation, with three generous cutlets topped with spinach, mushrooms and pine nuts. Except that when I tried a bit of veal, all I could taste was brandy; same for the spinach. I ate my way around the plate, sampling each ingredient separately, only to find they all tasted the same. Someone in the kitchen, in a misguided attempt at generosity with the spirits, had drowned this dish in brandy. Not that I don't appreciate brandy -- I grew up in Wisconsin, which drinks more brandy per capita than any other state in the union. And I know from inappropriate pairings -- have you ever had a brandy sour? It's definitely an acquired taste. But the flavors of the veal, mushrooms and spinach had been completely obliterated. I even tried to pass some off on my dining companion, not warning him ahead of time. The expression on his face said it all. When our waitress appeared a few minutes later to ask how were our meals, I noted that mine was inedible. She offered to replace it, but my companion was well into his own, and I didn't want to prolong this dinner. Besides, his plate of seafood Alfredo ($14.95) could have fed three of us. Instead, I concentrated on the side dishes -- meals come with a choice of two from a long list -- the garlic mashed potatoes were authentic with bits of red skin mashed in, and the vegetable medley included broccoli, cauliflower, zucchini and carrots, all barely cooked and crunchy. With a little salt, pepper and splash of lime (I fished a wedge from by glass of sparkling water) they were top notch.

Back to the pasta: though it suffered a bit from over-microwaving, this was a good rendition with noodles, baby shrimp, scallops, calamari bits of lobster spinach and tomatoes in a rich cream sauce. If he hadn't been so generous in sharing with me, my companion would have had another meal leftover from this platter.

When our waitress returned to clear the table she informed us that the price of the veal had been removed from our bill. "You shouldn't have to pay for something you didn't enjoy," she said, a sentiment more restaurants should take to heart.

A few days later, we gave PJ's another chance, this time ordering antipasto ($9.95) a massive platter of salad topped with roasted peppers, artichoke hearts, salami, pepperoni, ham, provolone and a large, pesto-grilled chicken breast. Once again, the salad was too well dressed; I can't believe I forgot to ask for dressing on the side. We were favorably impressed with crispy, beer battered coconut shrimp ($6.95), a real bargain considering there were a full dozen of them with a tangy papaya sauce for dipping. We shared a half rack of baby back ribs,($9.95/ full rack: $13.95). These were some of the best ribs I've tasted with a pay-attention Guinness-based sauce that gave them real heft.

We left reassured that PJ's kitchen is on track; but I'd stay away from the brandy if I were you.

Margaret LeRoux can be reached at feedmefeedback@hotmail.com.

Margaret LeRoux can be reached at feedmefeedback@hotmail.com.