Home cooking is their passion

Caffé Espresso

by Margaret LeRoux

Caffé Espresso 19 Wall St. Worcester (508) 767-1818 Hours Lunch Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Dinner Tues.-Thurs. 4-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 4-10 p.m. BYOB Major credit cards handicap accessible

Good food, fellowship and a nice bottle of wine -- what more could you ask from a restaurant? At Caffé Espresso Trattoria on Wall Street, the first two elements are in plentiful supply. The wine is up to you -- It's BYOB -- so take along a favorite and you're assured of a great meal. Two friends and I recently returned to Caffé Espresso after too long an absence; we'd forgotten how welcoming this little place can be. Actually, it's grown to almost double its original size since my last visit, but the increase in tables hasn't affected the service. The all-woman staff in place the night we dined managed beautifully. It was fitting, too, since the many diners on this occasion were groups of women. I've noticed a trend in dinner get- togethers among women friends who are too busy to do lunch during the day; in fact, my little group of diners fit that description perfectly. We wondered if the new millennium will mean the end of the "ladies who lunch" stereotype?

Despite no reservation, we waited only a few moments for a booth. As we chatted, I glimpsed a big rack of golden loaves of Italian bread through the kitchen window. Later, when our waitress brought us a basket, I was delighted that it tasted every bit as crisp and fresh as I'd imagined it would.

Caffé Espresso's menu notes that it's a family owned place and "home cooking is our passion...everything is made fresh from scratch." We can testify to the freshness of ingredients; we were impressed with everything we ate.

Starting with an appetizer special, mezzaluna ($6.99), a plate of large, half-moon shaped raviolis filled with roasted garlic, cheese and bits of fresh asparagus in a tomato infused béchamel sauce, we were spurred to poetic images.

"It tastes like spring," declared one of my companions, as she noted the crispness of the slender asparagus stalks. We soaked up the remains of the rosy toned sauce with bits of the crusty bread. It was an auspicious beginning to our meal. Other choices for appetizers include: steamed mussels in garlic wine sauce, antipasto, and tripe (all $6.99) baked stuffed mushrooms ($5.99), and steamed clams ($8.99).

Bowls of mixed greens with homemade dressing followed. We especially liked the blue cheese and creamy garlic ("with extra garlic," our waitress warned, but the dressing wasn't overpowering.)

I was so impressed with our appetizer pasta, that I wanted to try another example.

Caffé Espresso offers several pasta selections including standards like lasagna Bolognese ($9.99), and spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99); cheese tortellini in either tomato cream sauce or pesto ($10.99), risotto with shrimp, calamari, clams and mussels ($13.99), The restaurant's version of spaghetti carbonara features pancetta and onions in a cream sauce rather than the traditional raw egg. I selected cavatelli portobello ($10.99) and opted for adding grilled shrimp ($1.50 each).

The small, shell-shaped pasta were cooked to al dente perfection with thick slices of portobello mushroom in a wine, garlic and cheese sauce giving the dish a rich, earthy taste. The shrimp were huge, and grilled long enough to be cooked through with plenty of bite. They provided a sweet counterbalance to the mushrooms that made for a totally satisfying dish.

One of my companions opted for one of the simpler items on the menu, baked haddock ($13.99). A sprinkling of Italian herbs and browned bread crumbs topped the fish and a white wine sauce complimented it. Neither overpowered the delicate, flavor of the fresh haddock. So often this fish is over-seasoned or buried in thick batter; what a treat to enjoy its own natural flavor. Sautéed zucchini, summer squash and carrots as well as oven-browned potatoes accompanied the fish.

My other companion chose veal alla Napoletana ($14.99), generously sized medallions sautéed in white wine with sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, capers and roasted peppers. As with the fish, the veal in this dish was enhanced not overpowered by the other ingredients. A side dish of penne with oil and garlic was understated too.

Other dinner specialties include: grilled salmon and grilled shrimp ($13.99); other veal options include piccata, ($13.99), saltimbocca and marsala (both $14.99) as well as Parmigiana ($12.99). Chicken is offered in several styles: marsala, with proscuitto, lemon sauce and Parmigiana, all at $11.99.

Not wanting such a good time to end, we lingered over cappucino ($2.25) and espresso ($1.75) and sampled a couple of the dessert offerings. A slice of almond flavored sponge cake, and tiramisu, ($4.25 each) both homemade, earned high marks in the sweet indulgence category.

Our bill totaled $75.07 before tip.

Margaret LeRoux can be reached at
feedmefeedback@hotmail.com.

Margaret LeRoux can be reached at feedmefeedback@hotmail.com.