Grafton Crossing

An ambitious pub menu

by Margaret LeRoux

Grafton Crossing 135 Westborough Road Grafton (508) 839-2213 Hours Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. 4-8 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

It advertises itself as a pub, but Grafton Crossing looks more like a recreation hall decorated for a wedding with candlelight, tablecloths, and cloth napkins. The low-ceilinged room is so large that the two waitresses on duty the night we were there were positively breathless dashing from the tables to the kitchen and bar, which seemed half a football field away. There's a large stage and dance floor for hosting line dancing, swing dancing, rock acts, and karaoke on certain nights. Check the Phoenix listings for details, but call first; there's a cover charge when a band plays.

The restaurant is just a couple blocks from the newly opened commuter-rail station, so it wasn't surprising when several families stopped in just after the train from Boston arrived. Grafton Crossing accommodates kids with burgers, chicken tenders, spaghetti and meatballs (all $3.95) or mini pizza ($2.95). The waitresses were especially good with the young diners. The restless toddlers in the booth behind us were placated with chocolate milk; their briefcase-toting mom happily sipped a gin and tonic.

I was dining with two friends, one is easily pleased, the other's high standards are rarely met. In fact, this fussy diner was reluctant to come along to a pub, but by the evening's end, even she had to admit that Grafton Crossing is not your average bar and grill.

Brick-oven pizza is a big attraction at Grafton Crossing. One side of the restaurant is a pizzeria, though you can order pies on the fancier side too. Two of us shared a small Greek pizza ($6.95 small/$11.95 large) instead of appetizers, which lean heavily towards pub standards: mozzarella sticks ($4.50), Buffalo wings ($4.95), and fried calamari ($5.95). The third member of our group opted for a fresh-tomato, ricotta-and-mozzarella cheese-pizza ($5.95 small; $10.95 large) instead of a dinner entrée.

Though they were called small, the pizzas, served on pedestals, were a generous 10 inches in diameter. If you're not starving, one of these pies along with a Greek or Caesar salad ($5.95) would make a bargain meal for two people. The pizzas were thin-crusted and crisp along the edges though a little soggy on the bottom. The Greek version had sliced fresh tomatoes, cubes of feta cheese, fresh spinach, sliced black olives, and plenty of thin-sliced onions. Next time we'll try the NYC white: ricotta and mozzarella with fresh herbs ($5.95 small/$10.95 large). Make-your-own options include caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted peppers, and artichokes.

Grafton Crossing's entrées are ambitious beyond standard pub fare as well. Pasta dishes include linguine Alfredo with broccoli ($8.95); fusilli primavera ($9.95); farfalle cacciatore with chicken, mushrooms, onions, and peppers ($9.95); spinach fettucine al pino ($12.95), sautéed shrimp with garlic, tomatoes, and mushrooms; and ziti with shrimp and mushrooms in pink Vodka cream-sauce ($12.95).

Meat lovers can have sirloin steak ($12.95), and filet mignon ($13.95), or lamb brochette ($11.95). Chicken and veal are served picatta style or with marsala sauce ($9.95 for chicken/$13.95 for veal).

Seafood offerings are definitely not run of the mill either. Broiled haddock ($8.95) is sautéed with sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, and capers in a lemon-and-white-wine sauce. A mixed sauté of calamari, shrimp, scallops, and clams comes in red sauce over pasta ($14.95); or as a mixed grill (market priced).

I chose salmon al forno ($12.95), and received a thick filet that had been roasted in a wood-fired oven and was served with crispy oven-roasted potatoes and a mixture of sautéed summer squash, carrot slices, red peppers, and broccoli that was lightly seasoned with garlic. A first-rate handling of the vegetables. They were a cut above the soggy, overcooked versions served by many pubs. The salmon was fresh and flaky, served simply with a bit of melted butter and a side wedge of lemon. It, too, was cooked carefully and not allowed to dry out in the oven.

One of my companions tried eggplant rotolini ($9.95), Grafton Crossing's variation on another pub standard, eggplant Parmesan. Here, a lightly battered slice of eggplant is rolled around a filling of proscuitto, ricotta and romano cheese, basil, garlic, and tomatoes, then baked and served with a mound of spaghetti in marinara sauce -- tasty, but not at all spicy. This is a dish for a hearty eater. There was enough to make lunch from the leftovers.

Grafton Crossing pays heed to the growing popularity of wine by the glass with several low-end selections. Two of us chose Morro Bay chardonnay and Castelrosa pinot grigio (both $4.95) and the third member of our group drank Otter Creek ale ($3.75) from Vermont.

We passed on dessert, though we noticed diners at the table next to us were enjoying slices of ricotta cheesecake with berry topping. Our bill was a reasonable $52.97 before tip.