Team spirit

When an owner and a chef click, every diner knows it. That's the case at the Grafton Inn.

by Margaret LeRoux

Grafton Inn 25 Central Square Grafton 839-5931 Hours Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. noon-9 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

When we heard that John Pardee, former owner of the Westboro Country Club had taken over the Grafton Inn and brought along chef Don Lloyd, we were eager to give it a try. Imaginative and affordable fare were standards at the Westboro Country Club, and we were hopeful the pair would again work their magic.

We arrived on a busy Saturday night; the wait was more than an hour, so we took a stroll around the Common, one of the prettiest in the area.

The inn's decor hasn't changed since Pardee took over, but guests are made to feel welcome with comfy sofas and chairs in the large reception area. We were led to our table by the owner's charming, young daughter who was helping her mom with hostess duties.

When we dined, the old menu was still in place; but there's been a big improvement since the last time we ate here. Chef Lloyd has since created a new menu, including the introduction of sautéed shrimp in wine sauce over pasta, a favorite from his former kitchen. The intent, Pardee says, is to showcase American cooking with a variety of pasta dishes and homemade desserts.

Appetizers included pub favorites such as chicken fingers ($4.95), potato skins ($4.25), nachos ($4.75), and shrimp cocktail ($5.95). The four of us shared one of the specials, crabmeat-stuffed mushrooms ($6.95), four large mushroom caps filled with crab and spiced bread stuffing, then baked till hot. An order of bruschetta ($3.95), soft Italian bread toasted and topped with tomatoes, onions, basil, garlic, and melted mozzarella, took the edge off our hunger pangs.

There is a new wine list, but our waitress was new too and didn't know about it. So we trusted that merlot ($2.75), cabernet sauvignon ($4.50), and chardonnay ($5.25) by-the-glass would be good. They were.

The menu is extensive: lots of beef, including roasted prime rib ($10.95), New York strip steak ($11.95), and filet mignon ($13.95). London broil and sirloin tips (both $8.95) are good buys for bargain hunters.

Seafood lovers get the same respect, with a variety of offerings like fish and chips ($7.95); baked haddock stuffed with crabmeat ($9.95); New England casserole of scallops, shrimp, and crabmeat ($12.95); and seafood Alfredo ($13.95).

Chicken appears in several ways: Southern fried ($7.95), Chesapeake ($10.95), with crabmeat stuffing, and a pot pie topped with a shortcake crust ($7.95). Vegetarian offerings include pasta primavera ($8.95) and vegetable tempura ($7.99).

There's also a long list of sandwiches and burger combos that can be ordered for dinner as well as for lunch.

Our group was fairly easy to please. Two of us wanted seafood, so we chose lobster pie and shrimp and scallop Casanova (both $12.95); and the steak fan was intrigued by a special, steak au poivre ($9.95). The fourth member of our group couldn't make up his mind and settled for a do-it-yourself surf-and-turf combo ($14.95): a choice of lobster pie, baked-stuffed shrimp, or baked-stuffed haddock and a petite filet, New York strip, or prime rib. His first choice, filet, was out, so he had a New York strip steak.

The combo came on a large fish-shaped platter; the meat and fish servings were huge. The haddock was fresh and stuffed with the same crabmeat mixture we'd enjoyed in the mushrooms. The steak was tender and meaty. Crispy French fries and still-crunchy slices of summer squash completed the meal.

The steak au poivre was just as flavorful with a light sauce that included lots of peppercorns. My sample of the steak prompted me to consider exchanging meals, but then I tasted my seafood and changed my mind. Besides tender pieces of scallop and firm, sweet shrimp, the Casanova included bits of crispy bacon, fresh spinach, and tomatoes -- a winning combination served in a light wine sauce over a large mound of linguine.

The lobster pie was one of the best versions I've tasted. Lots of big chunks of meat in a Newburg sauce topped with toasted bread crumbs, this was rich and bountiful enough for us all to sample. My friend chose mashed red bliss potatoes; they were great.

We struck out in the dessert category; a slice of carrot cake ($2.75) and wedge of toll house pie ($2.50) were good but not home baked. We'll have to come back for the homemade pies. The new owner promises key lime, lemon meringue, and chocolate banana cream.

Our bill totaled $97.60, including tax but not tip.