Charm remains

After two years and several menu changes, Anthony's on Shrewsbury Street still satisfies

by Margaret LeRoux

Anthony's 172 Shrewsbury Street Worcester 575-6864 Hours Tues.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 5-11 p.m. Major credit cards BYOB Handicap accessible

Anthony's charmed us when it first opened nearly two years ago: we even predicted it would be a busy place. And since then, the menu has changed -- a few favorites remain with several new items -- but I'm glad to report it's still a treat to dine here.

Four of us met at the Shrewsbury Street restaurant on a recent week night because the atmosphere is more leisurely. Without the crowds, we had time to appreciate our suroundings, especially our waiter's attention.

Anthony's is spacious and attractive, simply decorated with bountiful green plants. Fresh flowers and candles on each table, as well as cloth napkins, add a touch of class.

There's a good variety of wines, including several by-the-glass selections. We enjoyed Alisa, an Italian chardonnay ($4.95), and Pepperwood, a lighter-than-expected pinot noir from California.

From the antipasti and salad options, we chose ravioli 172 ($5.95). This is a large, single ravioli, almost the size of a pie, which is stuffed with artichoke and roasted garlic, then topped with marinara sauce and cheese -- a delicious introduction. Indeed, the homemade pasta was a perfect al dente, the filling was delicate without being bland.

Other appetizers include: fried calamari ($7.95), proscuitto with seasonal fruit ($6.95), marinated mushrooms ($5.95), and a seasonal antipasto ($11.95) that's described as "imported delicacies and house specialties." On the lighter side, there are house ($2.95) and Caesar ($4.95) salads, both offered in dinner sizes with grilled shrimp, chicken, or tuna.

We shared a generously sized salad of romaine, gorgonzola, and chopped walnuts in a balsamic vinegar dressing ($5.95), though the salad would've been better with less dressing. Focaccia and Italian bread, fresh from the Central Bakery, was delivered with the salad, but we were dismayed to find that the cruet of garlic-infused olive oil, which we'd enjoyed previously, was missing.

Besides choices in the pasta, meat, and chicken categories, I made a note to return for the tortellini San Rocco ($12.95), in cream sauce, with mushrooms, artichoke hearts, sweat peas, rosemary, and proscuitto, as well as the sirloin Bella Vista ($18.95), grilled in roasted garlic and herbs, then served with red-bliss potatoes. Anthony's also offers grilled salmon ($12.95), tuna steak ($13.95), shrimp fra diavolo ($14.95), and mussels in tomato sauce ($11.95).

Two of us made our dinner selections from the evening's specials. I chose grilled rack of lamb ($19.95), which was divided into five individual chops, each grilled to a tender medium rare. A fresh rosemary spear pierced a mound of large-grain Israeli couscous. Imagine the difference between orzo and rice, and you'll have a good sense of how Israeli couscous compares to the traditional middle eastern version. Apricot bits were added to the couscous, giving it a tangy flavor. Lightly steamed green beans provided a pleasant emerald color to the plate, if not another chewy texture to the meal.

The second special was linguine with lobster and red clam sauce ($16.95), featuring fresh cherrystones. The briny clams were a perfect choice; they held up against the rich lobster and spicy sauce, which included ample garlic, plum tomatoes, and chile peppers.

Another friend selected grilled chicken carolena ($14.95), a boneless breast served with broccoli, artichokes, pine nuts, and roasted garlic cloves over gemelli pasta. This, too, was as pleasing to behold as it was to eat. Be forewarned, though, the garlic cloves are major influences in this dish.

Our group's fourth member can always be counted on to try something unusual. This time, I wondered if it'd be lucky duckling ($13.95), char-grilled duck breast in apricot and raspberry sauce, served with redskin potatoes, or if it'd be filet mignon puttanesca ($17.95), the classic steak topped with the classic Italian sauce -- capers, olives, plum tomatoes, and wine. He bypassed cannelloni salmone ($12.95), a fresh pasta filled with salmon, Swiss chard, and cheese; the smoked salmon Alfredo ($14.95); as well as the cheese and potato gnocchi with spinach, walnuts, and sun-dried tomato cream ($13.95). He ended up settling on seafood Sorrento ($15.95).

It was truly a seafood feast: mussels, clams, fat rings of calamari, and some of the biggest shrimp that I've ever seen -- all in a garlicky tomato sauce served over linguine. The shellfish-and-pasta platter was generous enough for us to share.

Needless to say, we were too satisfied to enjoy Anthony's desserts, although the tray looked appealing, definitely another reason to return. The bill for four was $107.89 before tip.