A.J. Tomaiolo's

Follow the chicken, but don't be shy on what you order once you get there

by Margaret LeRoux

A.J. Tomaiolo's 411 West Main Street Northborough 393-5245 Hours Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat. 4-10 p.m. Sun. noon-9 p.m. Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible Few restaurants can boast such an intriguing landmark. Sure, Route 1 in Saugus has the cows, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the huge sailboat. But for those setting out to find A.J. Tomaiolo's, a favorite among Northborough residents, it's the giant chicken that beckons -- and we suggest you obey. Tucked next to the Agway on Route 20, Tomaiolo's is an upscale Italian restaurant with classy entrees that seem more at home in a sophisticated urban setting. Four of us stopped in at A.J.'s, as the locals say, on a recent Sunday night expecting the lull most restaurants have after a busy weekend. Instead, the place was jumping; throughout the evening, groups came and went. Even though the restaurant's name and cuisine are both Italian, the decor is fancified early American. The walls are dark burgundy, and pewter chandeliers hang from the ceiling. A mantelpiece is the focal point of the balcony, where we sat and enjoyed our meal. Our waitress skillfully handled several tables near us, but within moments after we were seated, she came to take our beverage orders: soft drinks for two of us (95 cents). The others selected from a list of wines served by the glass: Chance Creek Sauvignon blanc ($4.75) and Coastal Cellars chardonnay ($4.50). The sauvignon blanc was described as unusual, and I'd have to agree it was unusually sweet. No matter, our waitress kept our water glasses filled during our meal. Appetizers are mostly standard: fried calamari ($5.95), breaded mozzarella sticks ($4.75), chicken fingers ($5.95), and antipasto ($8.95 full; $6.95 half). We shared the bruschetta campagnia ($6.95), a Boboli crust topped with garlic, tomatoes, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, and melted mozzarella cheese. This yummy dish disappeared within minutes; we all liked the combination, especially the addition of prosciutto. We also sampled two of A.J.'s soups: escarole and tortellini ($2.50 a cup; $3.50 a bowl). The escarole was especially flavorful with the addition of sliced meatballs. The menu is extensive, with more veal selections than I've seen in many restaurants, including veal parmigiana ($12.95). There are also piccata, sausage and peppers, and marsala, all at $13.95. A rich combination of veal and eggplant, deep fried and served with marinara sauce and melted mozzarella is $14.95. The restaurant accommodates those looking to count calories with "healthy choice" selections like shrimp Giovanni ($13.95), a mixture -- enhanced by Dijon mustard and low-fat sour cream -- of shrimp, onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, and herbs, served over pasta. It's hard to believe this dish contains only 426 calories and six grams of fat. Even lower in calories -- 373 with six grams of fat -- is vegetable agliata ($10.95), zucchini, summer squash, onions, peppers, and garlic in chicken stock and white wine over pasta. There are seven chicken entrees; sautéed chicken with artichokes, red peppers, lemon, garlic, and herbs over pasta ($12.95) was most appealing. Fish selections include shrimp scampi ($13.95), baked haddock ($12.95), and seafood fra diavolo ($14.95). Seafood Bertolo ($14.95), which features shrimp with mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, and spinach in a sherry cream sauce, sounded very good, too. There are several varieties of pasta, including fettuccine Alfredo ($9.95) and pasta gorgonzola ($10.95), as well as your basic spaghetti and meatballs ($8.95). A separate list of weekend specials was intriguing, particularly the shrimp and chicken Bettino ($16.95), with prosciutto in an herb-flavored wine and chicken broth over ravioli filled with a mixture of chicken, broccoli, and prosciutto. I was all set to order another special, red snapper Adriatic ($13.95), when our waitress warned I might not like the snapper because it's an oily fish. I've eaten lots of red snapper, none of it I'd describe as oily, so I quickly changed my order to veal Figaro ($15.95). This was scaloppini of veal, slices of red pepper, and quartered figs served in a rich demi-glace. It was offered with pasta, potato, or rice pilaf. I chose pasta, expecting the veal to be served over or alongside it, but it came in a separate dish topped with marinara sauce, not a fair accompaniment to the rich, brandy-enhanced demi-glace. So home the pasta went where it was enjoyed the next day; the marinara was a delicious sauce on its own. My other companions' selections were a good representation of A.J.'s menu. Baked-stuffed eggplant ($10.95) was two big slices rolled around a rich and delicately herbed filling of ricotta, Parmesan, and mozzarella cheeses and chopped spinach and artichoke hearts. Pasta with marinara sauce completed this tasty dish: it was so filling, in fact, that it came home for another meal. Herb-crusted salmon ($12.95) was everything a baked fillet should be: moist and tender, the herbed bread crumbs provided just a bit of crunch. Instead of pasta as a side dish, my companion chose French fries, which were hot and crispy. For dessert, we shared tiramisu ($4.50), coffee-liqueur-soaked cake filled with custard. We also indulged in lemon lush ($3.50), a lemon-custard filled cake that was both sweet and sour. Our bill for four was $95.50 before tip.

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