Tin Alley Grill

An easy way to satisfy your inner pub hound

by Margaret LeRoux

Tin Alley Grill 1699 Worcester Road (Route 9) Framingham 879-2822 Hours Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-midnight Sun. noon-midnight Major credit cards Full bar Handicap accessible

On our way back from Framingham recently, we noticed a new (to us) restaurant on the west side of Route 9. Tin Alley Grill boasts neon lighting, and in the big picture windows we could see lots of people at tables. The overall impression was good -- it looked like folks were having fun. So we made a note to pay the restaurant a visit.

We returned during midweek, and though the window tables were again full, we realized once we stepped inside that the view from Route 9 is of the bar. The restaurant on the opposite side is quite different from what we expected. While the bar was noisy and cheerful, the dining room, at least on this visit, was subdued. No front windows in the restaurant: instead, low ceilings, dim lighting, and upholstered booths along the walls. Lots of photos showed Framingham in the "old days," and several big, wall-mounted TV screens broadcast a Celtics game. Carpeting throughout muffles the sounds of the wait staff at work. The overall effect is of an upscale sports bar without a rowdy crowd.

Our waiter appeared to take our drink orders: a tall Foster's ($4.50), a short Sam Adams ($3.50), and a soft drink ($1.49). The beers were icy cold, served in frosty glasses.

There's a long list of standard pub appetizers: buffalo wings (13 for $5.99; 30 for $12.99), cheese sticks ($4.99), onion rings ($4.29), and potato skins ($5.49). There are three kinds of nachos -- beef, chicken (both $6.99), and cheese ($5.79). We shared an order of jalapeño poppers ($5.49), one of our favorites. A half-dozen of the hot -- but in this case not-too-fiery -- peppers were stuffed with cheddar cheese, covered in a potato breading, and fried till crispy. A thousand-island-style dip accompanied them; we demolished the plate of peppers in minutes.

Tin Alley's menu will please pub fans. It's straightforward beef, chicken, burgers, with a few pastas and seafood selections. There were few vegetarian options the night we dined; even most of the salads feature chicken, which comes fried, grilled, or buffalo style (all $6.99), or beef taco salad ($5.99). The exceptions are the house salad ($1.49) and Caesar ($3.99), but a menu revision is underway.

Beef selections include top sirloin ($8.99 an eight ounce; $12.99 for a pound), filet ($11.99), a full rack of ribs ($11.99), and fajitas ($8.99). The "trombo" ($11.99) includes steak tips, a half-rack of ribs, a grilled chicken breast, cole slaw, and French fries.

Boneless chicken breasts are offered either grilled, Cajun, teriyaki, or Southwest style (all $8.49), or there is fried ($7.49). Pastas include broccoli and chicken Alfredo ($8.49) and chicken parm ($7.99). Plain marinara sauce over penne is $6.99.

Seafood choices range from fish and chips ($7.99) to baked scallops ($10.99); grilled swordfish is $9.99 and seafood casserole of cod and scallops is $10.79.

Half-pound burgers include the classic with lettuce and tomato ($5.29), add mushrooms and Swiss cheese ($5.99).

Tin Alley features daily lunch and dinner specials. The night we dined beef kabobs ($8.99) appealed to the bargain hunter in me. The special included the house salad: a large bowl of mixed greens (crisp and chilled), cucumber, tomatoes, and croutons. It was ample enough to offer generous samples to my two companions. One of them opted for the rack of ribs; the other chose fish and chips.

The ribs were less-meaty than my companion expected, but the barbecue sauce was tasty and the accompanying French fries were crisp. Cole slaw comes with the ribs, not homemade but adequate.

My other-companion's fish and chips seemed designed for someone with a less-hearty appetite. Tin Alley uses cod instead of haddock, a tasty variation. But the piece my friend received, while fresh and crispy, was pretty skimpy.

My friend might have still been hungry, but my bountiful meal supplemented his. I received two big skewers of beef chunks, grilled medium rare as requested. The beef was tender; a light, Italian-style marinade added interest but didn't overwhelm the beef flavor. There were grilled peppers, mushrooms, lots of onions, and cherry tomatoes on the skewers too. No more room on this plate for a large, perfectly baked potato; it came on a separate dish. The quantity and quality of the beef and potato made this meal a real value.

I enjoyed it with a glass of the house merlot, Fetzer Eagle Peak ($3.50).

We shared a slice of Grandma's caramel apple pie ($2.79) for dessert. Served warm, the apples were crisp, the caramel sauce sweet, and our waiter added extra vanilla ice cream: what a treat. Our bill totaled $54.93, not including tip.