Hail to the chefs

by Melissa Houston

Patricia LaChance

Struck Cafe

LaChance took over the popular, 80-seat Chandler Street restaurant in May 1997 after 10 years as executive-sous chef at Leicester's Castle Restaurant, known for its classical and continental food and formal, romantic atmosphere. Most recently she worked as executive chef at Hartford, Connecticut's Bellini Restaurant.

"I try to stay away from current trends," LaChance, 38, says of her cooking philosophy. "I like to give a different feel -- instead of chicken, we'll serve hen."

LaChance has served the game meat two ways, in fact: grilled and braised with cabbage and fresh apple sauce, and thyme-rubbed and served over pilaf. "I like the bird, it's versatile and, I think, acceptable to the public," she says.

Seafood, too, has grown in popularity, LaChance says. "It's fresh, it's good for you. It's quick to cook, and, if done properly, it's moist and not very overpowering." Shark, mahi mahi, and monk fish are menu regulars and served with unusual sauces and vegetables -- like pomme dauphinois, thin slices of potato layered with Swiss cheese.

"It's nice to be calling the shots," LaChance says of the difference in working at the Stuck versus the Castle. "It's a lot more rewarding if the decision flies."

Flavor enhancers: Start with a little. You can always add more, but you can't take out.

Penny pinching: You get what you put into it, quality-wise. Shop for specials. Use seasonal products. Use coupons -- I do all the time at home.

Preventing disasters: Pay attention to the job at hand. Be aware of what is going on around you.

Microwaving: Microwave can be used in lieu of many traditional methods of cooking -- melting butter or chocolate, heating liquids, even poaching fish.

Osso Bucco

2 pounds 1"-thick, crosscut veal shank

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves peeled whole garlic

1 pound medium diced mire poix (carrots, onions, celery, leek)

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon ginger powder

1 cup white wine

1 pint beef broth

zest of 1/2 finely grated lemon

zest of 1/2 finely grated orange

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

season with salt and pepper

In heavy-gauge saucepot with cover, sear veal shanks well on both sides, remove and reserve. Add olive oil and mire poix and garlic, sweat on medium heat covered till mire poix is translucent. Return shanks to pan, dust with flour, bake in preheated oven at 350 degrees uncovered for 10 minutes. Remove, add dry mustard ginger, deglaze with white wine, bring to a boil. Add beef broth, bring back to boil and place back in oven covered for 30 minutes, then remove cover and cook uncovered 30 more minutes or until tender. Remove from oven, remove veal shanks from pan and reserve. Strain sauce, reserve mire poix for garnish. Reduce remaining liquid to 8 ounces. Add sage lemon and orange zests. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Secret sin: Cereal. "I try to blend different cereals together. You change the taste, texture, and cut the sweetness. Plus you can stretch it."

Favorite utensil: Microwave. "It comes in very handy for delicate sauces that won't work, they'd break down over the course of the night."

Ingredient I use but loathe: Okra. "I won't use it. I can't get past the slime."

Simple luxury no home kitchen should be without: Food processor. "In terms of little toys, you can't have a complete home kitchen without one."