Hail to the chefs

Four Worcester County chefs share their secrets

by Melissa Houston

David Zanoni

Arthur's Food & Spirits

When Zanoni talks about food, though, look out. It's his religion.

"People don't realize the Italian food they know represents about five percent of all the Italian food out there," he says.

Since October, Zanoni, 29, has been executive chef at Arthur's, an 84-seat, casual, pub-like eatery that almost immediately earned the reputation as one of Shrewsbury Street's better Italian-American restaurants with its great food, prepared with the best ingredients (Certified Angus, Provimi veal, and fresh vegetables). Restaurant favorites include lobster gorgonzola ravioli; Arthur's ravioli, filled with spinach and ricotta; roasted maple pork tenderloin; and delmonico rib eye, a much sought-after recipe that Zanoni, naturally, keeps close to the apron (he learned the marinade while living outside of Quebec during his hockey-playing days).

High praise for his food, which has translated into a packed restaurant, certainly comes as a compliment, he says. Still, he adds, the city has long needed better dining options.

"Shrewsbury Street was 15 years behind the times for the most part. Crescent City was making a good push. But, I think, the prices scare people."

And that's a big change for Zanoni, considering he worked for three and a half years at Providence's Capriccio, one of that city's better Italian restaurants. There, Zanoni learned how to use fresh herbs and cook with a variety of wines, including Burgundy and Zinfandel.

"It was demanding," he says. "There was no reason to put out anything that was second rate. If it wasn't right, it had to be made over."

And that's a lesson Zanoni has brought to Arthur's. He won't touch a tomato unless it's a pear or plum variety. "If a tomato doesn't taste good before it's cooked, the sauce won't taste good after it's cooked," he warns.

Using extra-virgin olive oil? Never cook with it, it gets bitter (try Pomace oil instead). Secret to his sauces: add marscapone cheese -- makes it sweet and rich every time.

Slicing or chopping: With your non-knife hand always curl fingers and hold food with your knuckles, using the knuckles as a guide.

Presentation: Try to keep the plate neat, colorful and arrange the food so it has a three-dimensional depth.

Smoked Chicken Spring Roll with Wasabi Mustard

5 boneless, skinless breasts

If fresh smoking, brine overnight in:
2 cups brown sugar
1 cup Kosher salt
6 cups water

Smoke, cool, and dice (small dice) or thin strips (julienne). Add diced chicken to two pounds of Mesclun (spring or baby) lettuce mix. To taste, add: salt, black pepper, granulated garlic. Two ounces pickled ginger, chopped fine. To taste, add: finely diced scallion. Roll into double wrapped wonton wrappers.

Wasabi Mustard

Atomic Grill, in Providence. Atmosphere, Atmosphere, Atmosphere.

Secret sin:

Hot dogs, but not just any hot dog, strictly a Nueskes man.

Favorite utensil:

Sharp knives are a must.

Ingredient I use but loathe:

Rosemary. "It reminds me of pine trees."

Simple luxury no home kitchen should be without: Fresh parmesan cheese, romano and asiago aren't bad either. "Flavor won't get lost when grated, not like that other . . . "