To a tea

Feeling a bit proper? Jane Austen would definitely approve of Chaippuccino

by Margaret LeRoux

Chaippuccino 1066 Pleasant Street, Worcester (508) 792-2100 Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-7 p. m., Sun. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Cash and checks only No alcohol Handicap accessible

Like a visit to Grandma's parlor -- if she favored Victorian decor, Oriental rugs, and lace curtains -- is a lunch at Chaippuccino on Pleasant Street near Tatnuck Square. The restaurant is in the lovingly restored ground floor of a three- decker. The former parlor, sun room, and sitting room are graced with skirted tables and antique chairs. Dark wood bookcases hold an assortment of tea-themed gift items. Wallpaper of shimmering roses looks and feels like silk.

With such a feminine atmosphere, it was no surprise that women made up most of the clientele the day three of us lunched. Hats and white gloves would not have been out of place. Next visit, we promised, we'll dress up like proper ladies. Though we chose a table in the sun room, we realized we'd have been more comfortable at a slightly larger table in the dining room. Once the tea paraphernalia accumulated, there was barely room for our lunch plates.

Everyone should experience tea as it was meant to be savored. At Chaippuccino this means English bone-china cups and saucers, porcelain and silver teapots, a tiny bowl of lemon wedges, and a dainty pitcher of milk. (Getting into the spirit of a ladies' luncheon, I whispered that, in lieu of sugar packets, I was rather hoping for sugar cubes; you so seldom see them anymore.)

The lunch menu offers a selection of sandwiches, three different soups, and salads. You can come for afternoon tea, served from 3 to 7 p.m., and enjoy a sandwich tray ( $4.95) and a variety of scones ($2.50) served with a number of toppings like Devon double cream, lemon curd, apple-cranberry chutney and raspberry quince, ginger peach, blackberry sage, or cinnamon plum jam.

The restaurant's namesake, Chaippuccino ($2.50), is the trendy tea with honey and spices served with foamed milk; other teas available in a pot for one ($2.25) or two ($4.50) include English breakfast, Irish breakfast, Earl Grey, Darjeeling, and Assam. There is also an assortment of herb teas.

Two in our group selected the half-sandwich and soup option ($5.50), opting for lobster bisque and Italian wedding soup. Spicy lentil and cream of turkey were also available that day. Unlike many versions of bisque, Chaippuccino's is light, soothing, and delicately spiced, with finely chopped bits of lobster added almost as a thickening agent rather than a separate ingredient. If the soup were just a few degrees warmer, it would have been perfect. The Italian wedding soup was made up of tiny meatballs in a chicken broth with fresh spinach and lots of pasta "dots." Served with a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, it was substantial without being overly filling. A bowl of this soup and a chunk of the basil focaccia would make a satisfying light meal.

Our sandwiches were turkey breast with apple-cranberry chutney and cheddar cheese served on rustic focaccia, and smoked salmon and sliced cucumber with dill butter served on dark rye bread. Both were outstanding. The turkey sandwich was thick and filling; the focaccia properly chewy, with bits of fresh rosemary. My companion chose the day's special dressing, fresh mayonnaise with Vidalia onion, which added piquancy.

I savored the salmon (a good slice), gently smoked. If a sandwich could be described as luxurious, it would be this one.

The third member of our group chose mesclun salad ($4.25) with walnuts, mandarin oranges, and red grapes served with an olive-oil and balsamic vinaigrette. A warmed slice of focaccia was also included. The salad dressing struck a nice balance between tart and sweet, but the greens were too large to be eaten in a ladylike manner, especially since the beautiful silverware we'd been given did not include knives. Later, when our hostess noticed the uneaten portion of salad, she apologized and offered to bring a knife or to package the remaining salad for take out.

My companion decided to forgo more salad in favor of dessert -- a wise choice, we concurred once we saw the dessert tray. Lovely slices of cake (chocolate, carrot, and a mocha torte), cheesecake, and a key lime pie beckoned. We chose only two, the cheesecake, opting for the addition of peaches as topping, and key lime pie ($4.25 each).

Aside from the peaches, which were canned, the cheesecake was light with a rich sour-cream frosting. The key lime pie, in a graham cracker crust, was tart, rich, and topped with fresh whipped cream. Our bill was $32.12, including tax but not tip, quite reasonable for such an elegant meal.