Sturbridge Bistro

A popular choice for those looking for a taste of everything

by Margaret LeRoux

Sturbridge Bistro 497 Main Street, Sturbridge (508) 347-3320 Wed.-Sun. 5:30-9 p.m. Major credit cards Wine and beer Handicap accessible

It was the chocolate nemesis that did me in. That wedge of dark chocolate mousse in a chocolate cookie crust -- decorated with white chocolate, whipped cream, and chocolate chips -- pushed me over the edge from "pleasantly full" straight into, "Omigod, why did I eat that?"

Because it was so good, is the obvious answer; so was the company and the atmosphere at the Sturbridge Bistro where four of us recently dined. During a leisurely midweek evening we experienced different tastes and textures, pleasant service, and agreeable wine. Sometimes a meal is more than the sum of its parts; this was one of those dinners.

The Bistro's chef-owner, Mouldi Djelassi, was born and raised in Tunisia, where he learned his trade in the kitchens of this North African vacation spot's resorts. Djelassi met his wife, Worcester native Terry Gordon, in Cologne, Germany, where she was dancing with the Boston Ballet. The pair moved to Massachusetts where Djelassi worked in a number of eateries, including the famed, French restaurant Maison Robert.

The Sturbridge Bistro, which opened eight years ago, is a sprawling sort of place, with a couple of dining rooms paneled in pine, furnished from flea markets and attics. Service was friendly and down to earth, as you'd expect in a true bistro.

The chef's background is evident in the extensive menu, which features Mediterranean, French, German, and Greek cooking styles. There are American favorites, too, including six varieties of burgers and pocket sandwiches, a whole page of deli-style sandwiches and salads, and a handful of vegetarian dishes. There is literally something for every appetite here.

We began by sharing appetizers: crabmeat stuffed mushroom ($4.95), topped with melted cheese -- very light and delicate -- and phyllo triangles, spanakopita ($4.95), a crispy rendition of this classic Greek dish. Others I've had have suffered because the layers of phyllo become too soggy. This one wasn't.

Our dinners came with house salads, an assortment of chilled greens with homemade dressings, tasty if not inspired.

We tried to provide a good representation of the menu with our dinner choices, so we opted for steak, seafood, veal, and vegetarian pasta. The chicken dishes, all boneless breasts served in several different sauce or spice combinations, will have to wait for another visit. But especially intriguing were chicken Normandine ($11.95), sautéed with golden delicious apples, white wine and cream, and chicken Santa Fe (10.95), topped with cream cheese and roasted sweet red pepper sauce.

The seafood one of my companions selected was baked haddock ($10.95) from the evening's specials. A light herb (chives, thyme, parsley) and wine sauce served as a backdrop to the fish. When haddock is fresh and not overcooked, it's a delightful fish, and this certainly was. The vegetable of the evening was green beans; not something we usually rave about, but these were outstanding -- crispy with a touch of olive oil. The dish's flavor sent one of my companions into a reverie of a summer in Greece where she ate an unforgettable dish of green beans and tomatoes.

Steak Madagascar ($13.95) was another hit. A hefty cut of New York sirloin served grilled with a green peppercorn sauce. The sauce, in fact, led us to request more than one sample taste. Roasted potatoes served alongside had a buttery flavor.

The veal, schnitzel pizzeola ($13.95), was a tender cutlet of sirloin stuffed with a tasty mixture of sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, black olives, and capers topped with marinara sauce and melted cheese. It was served with a side of pasta and more of the mild marinara sauce.

The last time I ordered pasta with fresh garlic, family and friends avoided me for days, so this time I requested the chef use restraint in my choice, vegetarian aioli picante ($9.95), a combination of olive oil, garlic, artichoke hearts, sundried tomatoes, and fresh vegetables (carrots and broccoli) served over penne. Bad move on my part, because this dish suffered from my timidity. Although the individual ingredients were all top notch, they needed the oomph that only garlic can give. I've put my loved ones on notice, from now on, I'm going to be bold when it comes to garlic.

With out meals we drank glasses of the house merlot from France ($3.50) and chardonnay from Australia ($3.50). Several varieties of beer are available by the bottle.

But, one final word on my dessert, chocolate nemesis ($3.50), which, if chocolate is your downfall, this will certainly do you in too.

Our bill including tax, but not tip was $93.14.