Waterworld

It's a paddler's haven at the Canoe Club

by Jim Johnson

Canoe Club, Route 16, Mendon
624-0822
Sun. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Not handicap accessible

In an earlier life, the Canoe Club was a paddler's haven, an inland, lakeside version of a yacht club. Today it's a restaurant, where hungry folks can enjoy good comfort food at reasonable prices. And, if they hurry, they can also enjoy the vestige of autumn foliage glistening across rural Lake Nipmuc some 20 to 25 minutes southeast of Worcester.

Paddling is definitely a dominant theme at the Canoe Club, where the tongue-in-cheek serves more purposes than swallowing food. Take the menu, for example, where "the crew welcomes you down the river" to enjoy appetizers like pizza boats, nachos overboard, water buffalo fingers, and potato boats. "Beefy canoers" can order either the stream cut of New York sirloin or the larger river cut. If you prefer burgers, try the steamboat (with Cajun spices) or the kayaker's dream (with chili and cheddar).

The motif doesn't end with the menu. The walls (and ceilings) are laden with old fishing gear, ancient water skis, mounted fish, and signs like "Work is for people who don't know how to fish" and a well-worn "Canoe Rentals 15cents." Server nametags are shaped like paddles, and the dessert menus are laminated on mid-sized ones.

Ancient athletic kitsch runs rampant, from toboggans that make Rosebud look modern to snowshoes that have their best miles behind them. Bumper stickers recall the good, old "Nixon Agnew" days while reminding all that "Friends Don't Let Friends Vote Republican." Add a framed beer-can display, incongruous photos, and Naugahyde booths that make your butt squeak, and we're talking fun.

The waitstaff is upbeat and friendly and utterly eager to serve. When I responded that we were fine with water, wine, bread, and everything else, our server laughed and said, "Well, I want to get something for you!"

She had ample opportunity as the evening progressed.

We started with two items from "The Launch," the appetizer section. The pizza snorkels ($4.95) consisted of egg-roll skins coated with tomato sauce and spattered with cheese and pepperoni. The dough was then rolled tightly and fried. The result was a stack of crispy six-inch "snorkels" that were slightly gooey and spicy and sort of fun.

The shrimp cocktail ($5.95) was a good value for nine shrimp, the lettuce and lemon presentation was attractive. A horseradish cocktail sauce tasted tangy and fresh.

My dining companion chose from the "Gone Fishin'" section, a varied selection of fried items like clams, fish and chips, shrimp, scallops, and a combination platter with them all. There were also baked items like scrod, haddock, haddock pesto, scallops, and shrimp. Her choice was the haddock ($9.95); it was as tasty as it was large -- firm, fresh, and flaky (or was that my dining companion?), seasoned perfectly, and cooked just right. A light breading was slightly crispy and added surprising intrigue to the fish.

The "North Enders" section offers a dozen or so dishes with a choice of six different pasta: linguine, penne, fettucini, rotini, cheese ravioli, and cheese tortellini. Options include chicken pesto, chicken or veal marsala or scampi, and chicken and broccoli alfredo. I chose seafood marinara ($10.95) served with ziti.

The ziti were cooked just right and drenched in a sassy marinara sauce. The seafood were plentiful: the cod was firm and fresh, the shrimp large and sweet. Only the tiny bay scallops disappointed, a tad chewy due to overcooking. As we ate, a platter of fried clams arrived at the next table. The clams were piled high with a thick batter and juicy bellies. If only my gallbladder and cholesterol could still take the beating. The clams were quickly followed by the telltale sizzling of the "U Needa Fajita" ($9.95), which was as colorful as it was noisy.

A variety of international coffees awaited us, but we targeted desserts instead. Looking at the choices on the paddle, my tablemate chose the snickers pie ($3.50), which tasted just as it sounds. I took a more conservative approach and went for the miniature sundae, a mere 25 cents and billed as the world's smallest.

It's sort of a gag dessert, but it's the perfect finish if you're craving sweets but don't want or need a full dessert. Indeed, the sundae arrived in a paper tartar-sauce cup filled with vanilla ice cream, coated with fudge sauce, and heaped high with whipped cream. Strangely enough, I felt fully satisfied.

Although the Canoe Club's prices are already low, you can save a buck off every entree and get free salad and dessert Tuesday through Friday from 3 to 5:30 p.m. There's also a $7.95 all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch buffet with a sampling of entree fare served in addition to baked items and breakfast fare.