Cobblestone's of Lowell

Historic setting adds flair to international fare

by Jim Johnson

91 Dutton Street, Lowell, 970-2282
Open Sun.-Wed. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Thurs.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Not handicap accessible

On warm summer days, visitors from across the globe tour the Lowell National Historic Park, where the city's old mills and factories revolutionized industry. Six friends and I recently picked Cobblestones, in part for its reputation for fine food and in part for its historic setting, as our dining spot.

The building, designated as a historic landmark, was constructed in 1859 as an executive boarding house. In 1900, it became the Yorick, an exclusive men's club, with dining room, billiard room, and library on the first floor and a speakeasy in the cellar. The original structure -- complete with tin ceilings, wainscoting, and intricate moldings -- makes for relaxed dining charged with history and a touch of Prohibition intrigue.

One member of our party thought the decor looked like leftovers from Fox Mulder's rummage sale: steer horns mounted over an archway, knotted shrouds draped over the windows, and a battered trumpet hanging from a mirror. Papier maché figures dressed in gold leaf guarded one wall; nearby, an Ionic column pedestal bore a Mayan vase.

Was it whimsy or weirdness? Who's to say? We were having fun, and the appetizers that soon arrived quickly captured our attention.

We avoided the more mundane appetizers -- such as Buffalo tenders, "Cobbleskins," and Nachos Grande -- and chose the more exciting options in a world tour of flavors. Two Southwestern dishes started us off. The black-bean soup ($3.50) was thick and hearty, almost chili-like, topped with chopped scallions, carrots, and peppers and a dollop of sour cream. The chicken quesadilla ($7.50) was bland by comparison, rescued by a fiery, garlicky picante sauce.

Moving east to the Continent, we enjoyed a toasted garlic baguette ($6.50) that was completely fresh and topped with artichoke hearts, red pepper, warm but firm spinach, diced tomatoes, and gooey mozzarella. Crossing to the Middle East, we ordered the Big Dipper ($6.50) a variety of chilled, fresh vegetables served with hummus and spinach-chestnut spread.

Carrying us to India was an absolutely tender chicken Satay ($6.25), which was coated in pungent curry and served with a mouth-pleasing dipping mix of coconut milk, soy sauce, lime, chili sauce, and peanuts. Another chicken dish -- crispy chicken ($5.95) -- took a Farther Eastern approach, a generous pile of tenderloins served with delicate tempura coating with ginger-soy sauce on the side.

Entrées took a similarly international approach. I ordered arguably the best dish on the menu, curried pork with cous cous ($10.95). The two tenderloins were grilled perfectly and set atop curried tomato and scallion chutney sweetened with a hint of citrus. The cous cous, while bland on its own, was sublime when mixed with the sauce.

Although ordered medium and cooked well, the steak and mushroom flambé ($16.94) was still tender and flavorful, thanks to a soothing sauce of Dijon mustard, butter, garlic, and cream. Cognac flaming added just the right zip. The filet mignon El Gaucho ($16.95) was equally tender and zippy, a nine-ounce filet seared in a crisp black peppercorn coating, roasted, and served with jalapeño pepper sauce. Texas tips ($10.95) garnered high praise as well, thanks to a perfectly balanced barbecue sauce marinade.

I found the shrimp and chicken scampi ($15.25) overladen with cheese and cream, but others gave it higher marks, noting the al dente linguine and tender shrimp and chicken. Shrimp also took center stage blackened and served with black-bean sauce ($14.95), the shrimp dredged in Cajun spices and seared.

Although offered a dignified choice of cognacs, single malt scotches, brandies, and ports, we found room for desserts. Our top pick was bananas flambé ($4.75): sliced bananas sautéed in butter and brown sugar for a sinful butterscotch flavor, flamed with brandy, served over vanilla ice cream, and topped with whipped cream. To die for and to die from, all at the same time.

Service was attentive and friendly despite some pacing problems between courses. And we're still wondering about the man in the dirty sweatshirt who asked us if we enjoyed our meal -- before it came!