Michael's

Work out, then dine out

Michael's at the Auburn Club
Route 20, Auburn 832-5040
Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. & 5-10 p.m.
Sat. 3-10 p.m.
Sun. 3-8 p.m.
Major credit cards
Full bar
Not handicap accessible

by Jim Johnson

Four star meals at two star prices" is how Michael's bills itself, and the exaggeration is minimal. Although it's no Harrington Farm or Arturo's, Michael's does offer a strong three-star experience, with above-average dining in a relaxed setting.

The comfortable atmosphere is all the more surprising for its location in the Auburn Athletic Club. Getting into Michael's takes a few guilty steps past club members burning calories on StairMasters and treadmills. Within the restaurant, however, the interior design suggests warmth and comfort. Fresh carnations decorate each table. Teal trellises set off private booths. Only the paper napkins, quiet bar, and parquet dance floor hint at the restaurant's pub-like origins. Also, the tempting menu trashes any thought of guilt.

Before continuing, I must make a confession. I developed a major crush on our server, not just because of her cute, wholesome, girl-next-door looks, but also because of her genuineness; she treated us like guests, not customers, and made sure her two new "friends" had a great evening. We did. Even sans crush (and even if I'd noticed her wedding ring earlier), I'm sure her genuineness and attentiveness would have had a similarly positive influence on an already superior meal.

Appetizers include steamed mussels, peel-and-eat shrimp, baked brie, and Buffalo mozzarella as well as a variety of soups and salads. Entrées fall into three categories -- meat, fish, and pasta -- with French, Italian, Spanish, Indian, and German dishes adding a welcome international variety. Few local establishments can boast paella, Steak Diane, vegetable curry, shrimp scampi, and schnitzel on the same menu. The range of fish selections is similarly impressive, including baked whitefish, grilled swordfish or salmon, and roasted scallops. Choices also include several heart-healthy choices appropriate for a health-club environment.

We started with an appetizer -- stuffed mushrooms ($5.95) -- and two soups. The mushrooms were a bit steep in price for five smallish caps, although a knot of linguine in the center helped to fill out the plate. Each mushroom was tasty, thanks to the fresh bread stuffing packed with herbs and bits of seafood. An arugula leaf added color.

My friend ate every bit of his lobster bisque (soup or salad comes with dinner). It was creamy as could be and packed with lobster flavor. My summer vegetable soup added tortellini and fresh, firm carrots, celery, and red and green peppers to a delicious, hearty beef stock. Warm rolls helped us clean the bottom of our bowls.

For entrées, we'd settled quickly on roast stuffed pork and German schnitzel. The generous portions by no means reflected the reasonable $9.95 cost for each.

The German schnitzel might even fool a few of my Teutonic friends. The veal was pounded thin, lightly coated in an egg-and-breadcrumbs batter, and pan-fried. The meat was tender, the bread coating was just right for soaking in a rich brown sauce. As is traditional, a lemon sat at the ready. Not so traditionally, capers and chopped peppers were strewn across the dish, adding salty pungency. Spätzle, those tiny flour dumplings, came on the side -- the first time I'd seen them fried like mini-doughboys rather than boiled and sautéed.

The stuffed pork was a total treat. The pork had also been pounded flat, filled with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, and herbs, rolled, roasted, and sliced. Crispy herbs topped each slice -- perhaps rosemary and a hint of anise among them. The dish came with string beans and roasted red bliss potatoes. Tasty, decorative sauces completed the effect.

When our server brought out the dessert tray, we couldn't deprive ourselves. Still, we asked if the desserts were homemade. She responded with a broad smile and sincere enthusiasm: "Absolutely! She bakes TLC into every piece." After finishing a decadent chocolate soufflé ($3.95) and a sensuous apple crisp ($2.95) topped with ice cream, we had to agree.

Prices are extremely reasonable at Michael's, averaging about $5 for appetizers and $10 for entrées. Knock a dollar of so off at lunch for appetizers and a few bucks off for entrées. Our dinner came to $35 for two, excluding drinks and a well-deserved tip.